Question about Lutron Electrical Supplies
The light switch is a Lutron dimmer switch. There are 2 switches in the switch box -- one works and one now doesn't. The switch stopped working after I flipped off the circuit breaker and flipped it back on. As a random note, I flipped the circuit breaker off/on for a different switch box. A similar thing happened -- the switch no longer worked, but after a few hours the switch started working again. Unfortunately, my other switch never started working again after several weeks.
You might look to see if the outlet is GFI protected. It is possible the GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) tripped and needs to be reset.
If so, push the red button (reset button) firmly until it stays down (pushed in). If it does not stay closed, replace it.
Also check your light bulb fed by "the switch that does not work", to make sure it did not burn out.
Your switch could be good, but the bulb bad.
If your light switch is not on a GFI circuit and both Lutron switches are fed by one breaker, get a volt-ohm meter, set it to the volts in a voltage range to read house hold voltage (around 121 volts), and check to see that both switches are receiving 121 volts. Usually you measure with the black probe touching a white (neutral) wire, while the black wire is usually the wire that is in series with the lamp. A black wire may come into the switch and leave as a black wire going to the bulb. If you do not have full voltage reaching your switch, you may have a wiring problem where a wire is no longer making good contact. If you are not sure about how to test with a volt meter, search on your tube for further explanations on how to test to see if a light switch is good.
Posted on Dec 31, 2018
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there is not way to know how the wires are run by the description.
it is possible to connct true 3-way switch, it will required additonal pair of wires to all 3 switches (meaning 3-14/3 wire).
so call 3-way switches is only two way. I have not seems a real 3-way switches.
go to the following site. they a connection diag. for the switches.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
It's quite probable these units have gone faulty, due to the "Outage" see my previous post below.. You will need to replace these units, to restore functions. Please, have a read below, it may save you many $$ We have all had them, Power Outages, inconvenient, and also very deadly, well to Electronic equipment anyway. You see when any Circuit, is Made or Broken, at the instant of contact, when reconnecting, the current draw is considerable, also, after the connection has been made, and the "Load" being connected, and the Current draw is large, all sorts of transients, Spikes, Surges, Oscillations, is reflected, up and down the entire network. Now along with this, MOST people do NOT completely remove, the unit from the mains, by withdrawing the plug. nor, probably, even turn it off. This is wrong, ALL/ANY electronic equipment, that is connected to that Grid, will also encounter a phenomenon know as "Inrush Current" Now, this Inrush Current, Can and Does cause a great deal of damage to electronic equipment, the, instant reconnection, without going through an ON/OFF switch, and Power Conditioning Circuitry, well, the initial Current draw for that instant, is incredibly, high, and with nothing between, the current surges in, stressing everything, in the Power Supply, and more. Now along with that, you also have Transients, Spikes, Surges, Ringing, Oscillations, caused by the reconnecting of the Circuits. Joining of Cables, or Contacts. When the Power Goes OFF, you should NEVER leave anything plugged in after a Power outage, you need to withdraw each and every plug, from ALL Electronic equipment, note here, purely resistive, and relay type equipment is usually immune, it must be removed, and it shouldn't be reconnected, until about 5 minutes, AFTER the Power has been reconnected. This is to Avoid, all of the bad things that are caused by the reconnection back onto the Grid. If you do this, you can be assured of you Electronic items, lasting at least as long as they should, and not suffer premature deaths.
Posted on May 06, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 12, 2015 | 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan
May 24, 2014 | Hampton Bay Dryers
Jul 08, 2013 | Electrical Supplies
Jul 21, 2012 | 1989 Oldsmobile Toronado
Apr 18, 2012 | Maytag MDB7609AWS Builtin Dishwasher
Apr 16, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...
Jun 15, 2017 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix
Dec 19, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Colorado
Mar 02, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Ram
Sep 25, 2016 | Lutron Electrical Supplies
Jan 11, 2016 | Lutron Maestro 150-Watt Single Pole/3-Way...
108 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: