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at least 5'X3 " supported at each end but a stud under the ends
It has to be strong enough to carry any weight from the roof on the top plate over that distance
Local builders will give you some idea or just visit building sites and measure what is in use
different grades of timber and types of timber have different strengths
a laminated beam will be stronger than a solid beam and will be less in dimension to do the job
Architects have a book showing timber strengths for lengths so find an architect and get the right advice from him
if you find that the beam will be too big for what you want, consider using a steel rhs beam and using timber as a surface finish on 3 sides
that is a common practice in building structures
Hi Dave:
Cars & trucks section so you may not get many answers.
I'm a retired Building Inspector so have a general idea of what you are talking about.
There are several variables that come into consideration.....
- Supported joist length
- Load on those joists
- You'll find the required beam size in the appropriate tables.
Your local Building Inspector should be able to assist you.
Cheers
There is a plate or sticker on the Port transom bracket or on the steering bracket ( between both transom brackets ).
On very old engines the plate is rivetted on the steering bracket at the front of the engine.
If you can't find a plate or sticker anymore, there is a aluminum 'freezeplug' with the serial number stamped. You'll find that plug in most cases at the starboard side of the engine block near the cilinder head, or on the top of the cilinder block.
Is your steering using the cable / pulley and springs, or has it the through the tube steering? If it's the later, undo the nut that holds the cable to the transom bracket, Then try and turn the motor, If the motor won't budge, the pivot is seized, If the motor moves, your cable is seized or the steering box needs help! How to remove your steering wheel, There will be a cover hiding the nut in the centre of the wheel!
Very common. The rubber diaphrams and checkvalve o rings do not last forever, and they begin to leak. The most common one is the driver side's vacuum door lock valve. This one is activated when your key turns the lock and diverts the valve's vacuum, which activates the other door's plungers to open. This is the one to fix first, and it requires that you remove the inside door hardware and panel to reach it. Buy a new valve ahead of time so you don't have to take it apart again. Then try the system. If it works but still not well, then get ready to test the other vacuum pods: Trunk, gas cap, center dash (HVAC). The center dash pod is fairly common and a bit difficult to reach (I would go through the center dash' vent with one hand, and the removed glovebox with the other) to replace the center. Check the web for the detail on that one because it requires taking the pod apart while its still attached to its bracket under the dash) Not fun, but better than removing the entire dash. In the end, troublshooting - specially without a vacuum pump (you can get a hand held one from an autostore) - is tedious and is by trial and error and replacing the pods. But, either you do it, or be charged $75/hr and no gaurantee the leak can be found. New door valve is about $20 and the dash pod $25.
no. a unmodified transom bracket may need to be moved not removed. Since the tilt motor is out you will need to manually lift the engine. you can see the picture diagram at www.yamaha-motor.com. click on outboard motors,parts and service, view parts catalog. find your year make and model by following steps listed at top. select power trim and tilt assembly. in the picture you will see the location of the Manuel release valve on the starboard side. turn the Manuel release valve then lift the engine. tie it up or use a stand to keep it up,do not use the tilt lock. with the engine in full tilt position, you can see the motor. some brackets are modified were you can remove the motor without moving the transom bracket. If unmodified you'll need to follow these steps. (1) lower the engine back down.the steering arm needs to be removed from the steering cable and swung forward. do not remove steering arm from engine. on the starboard side of the engine you will see the steering cable going into the steering cable tube. (2)a 1 1/6 nut secures the cable to that tube remove it and slide cable out do not remove it.(3) lift engine again and secure it. your about to remove the motor mount bolt so make sure you secure the motor completely (4)remove upper and lower transom to bracket bolts remove bolts on the port side only.(5) you will see three bolt that go through the transom bracket to the trim and tilt assembly. remove them.(6) if all bolts are removed you will be able to slide the port transom bracket to the left out of the way(7) remove tilt/trim motor.
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