The red light comes on when 115 volts is connected. Both controls are toasted (in pieces) I read 10 ohms on the heating element. Is there fuse somewhere too? Thanks for your help. Geow.
SOURCE: dryer spins but no heat
Did you check the power coard where it connects to the dryer? Start at the source. Make sure that you have at least 110v on each line. The dryer will tumble on 110v but requires 220v to heat. If you have 220v then check the t-stat and thermal cut-out on the blower. Check all wires for loose or burnt terminals. If all that is good it may be a bad motor or timer/control. I'm happy that you have a meter.
Good luck.
SOURCE: Dishwasher Heating element not working
my wife shut the water off to the dishwasher and forgot to turn it back on and then used the dishwasher.
the heating element went on but there was nop water.
when we turned the water back on,the drying cycle does not work.i would think that the element needs to be changed or is there a relay on the computer board?
this is a two year old Jennair unit.
any suggestions?
SOURCE: Whirlpool dryer won't heat
hi. thanks for letting me answer.the only part that was not mentioned. is the timer contacs Y & R . the heat contacts in the heating circuit. thanks
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating
The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.
Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."
I could not easily find an instruction sheet, but I believe that the top knob is the thermostat... rotate it clockwise for higher temperatures and counter-clockwise to lower the temperature. The lower knob controls the number of heating elements. The first dot/dash if for the 600W element only, the second longer dot/dash is for the 900W element only; and the longest dot/dash is to select both the heating elements giving 1500W total output power.
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