The bottom door switch is defective due to opening the door while it's cooking instead of pressing the "stop" pad first, or less likely, the bottom door switch's mount is loose, misaligned, or broken.
See my help files here:
http://www.microwavecontrol.com/safety.htm
http://www.microwavecontrol.com/disassembly.htm
http://www.microwavecontrol.com/doorsw.htmThe service manual is here:
http://www.microwavecontrol.com/r930cs_sm.pdf
Feel free to contact me directly through my sight with your model number and symptoms if you need further assistance.
SOURCE: Microwave does not heat
Just had the same experience with the identical model. Removed the cover (a challenge because of the security screws), revealing valuable troubleshooting directions intended for an experienced technician. However, I think the info is well within the reach of a typical DIY person, does not require any dangerous power-on conditions. However, make sure that you discharge the HV capacitor before trouble shooting. In my case, it appears that the HV diode is open, have ordered a replacement on the internet for $3.18, easy to replace. Hope it works. Good luck.
SOURCE: Microwave turns on, but no heat or turntable movement
The problem is that the magnatron is not getting power. Chance is that if could be a bolwn fuse inside the unit. If the fuse don't fix it then that leaves the charging diode, capacitor or the magnatron, or high voltage xformer of which without technical epertize I would not recomend attempting to replace. good luck
SOURCE: Microwave won't heat, and turntable doesn't turn
All the parts you mention are very inexpensive, but yours does not have a triac.
It could be the cook relay, but it's more likely to be a switch.
Looking at the schematic, it's probably a bad primary interlock (upper door switch) or maybe its mount is bad.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If you have a broken mount, it's usually more economical and
safer to just add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
Here are some helpful links:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or elsewhere, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Sharp Carousel R-1481 Turntable
It may very well have have damaged the turntable motor.
The turntable system
consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers,
and the tray.
You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should
sound when you rotate it by hand.
If
yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate
or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or
plastic coupler.
To
replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover
of the oven.
On many Sharp models, you have to cut the motor cover off with
snips, then use a
screw when reassembling it.
We have
the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our
site here to help you.
It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.
You will need the free
Acrobat Reader
to view or print it in case you don't have it already.
The best place to order
parts for this brand is Encompass (formerly Tritronics). Or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.
Be sure if you cook an egg that you puncture the shell first so it can breathe.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: TIMER COUNTS DOWN, MICROWAVE DOES NOT TURN ON
To actons2 - This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and
safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes
helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount
or
door alignment issue.
If you or someone you
know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on
FixYa:.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem
is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail
for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
Note to Austin8181 - Your problem is not quite the same.
Please report as a separate request and of course please include your brand and model number.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
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