What size is the resistor R-116 on a Philco 841.205 PCB?

http://www.ebay.it/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Dual%20speed%20turntable%20motor%20MMI%206T2RWK%209%2012V&_itemId=220612581945

This looks promising!

i own this model the main nut spins of sometimes and the brake becomes lose just tighten the nut it only takes about 3 mins

R31 47 ohm 1/4 watt 5%
R30 100 ohm 1/4 watt 5%

I re-drew the schematics from the PCB-layout and did some backward engineering to determine the resistor value. The machine is now again in excellent working order.

turntableneedles.com has about 450 belt sizes in stock. your unit is too new to have this listing yet as the belt should not have failed already so when you call be ready with the length of the old belt. Don't worry that it is stretched, a new size will be calculated that is about 3-5% shorter.

Alan, The resistor is on the underside of the CD 5 main pcb near the jack socket it is a small chip resistor, but this can be replaced with a small 1/4 watt or smaller resistor. If you provide me with your e mail address I will send you a copy of the PCB layout drawing, the image size is to large to attach
Regards
Dave

just find a local electronic repair shop near you
look in the phone book for electronic /electronic repar shop
i have had to repair these before and the selector chip has failed because of a resistor letting to much current and voltage go into the chip , repair cost $40-$50 depending on the dammage

Solution if all fuses checked out OK and +/-40V are present on main PCB DC connector from power supply:
Check for +37V and -37V on small sub-power supply PCB - mounted vertically on the main power supply PCB. (next to ribbon cable connector is a layout with voltages.) If the +/-37V are missing check (replace) C501 (0.1uF) on the small power supply PCB for leakage, but also check (replace) R401 (2R2) and R402 (2R2) on the main power supply PCB. Both resistors are fuse-resistors and will have gone open circuit when C501 has gone leaky.

I know that a couple of you have had the same problem with the blowing 0.47 ohm resistors. I had responded quite a wile back, but forgot to make any updates. Kostiko is correct about the problem relating to these two 0.47 ohm resistors being blown. In my case on two different Haman Kardon models, this was true, but there could also be another issue. What i have found is even after replacing these resistors, the problem appeared to still be there. What was happening was that right after turning the receiver on, the resistors would blow again. What you need to do is replace the two small ceramic disc style capacitors on the same pcb as the fusible resistors, as they could be shorted as in my case. You could remove these capacitors completely, or replace them with a similar size of the same type, as they are really just there for filtering higher frequency noises from the power supply. You can check them with your multimeter first. They shouldn't shorted even in situe. I forget the size, but they are approximately 100 nano farads. Good luck. I have done this to my AVR135, and it has been running great for about 6 months now.

The "vacuum won't shut off" problem is caused by a faulty triac (electronic component) on the P.C.B. assembly. You have two choices, depending on your handiness:

1. Easiest: Replace the PCB: P.N.=KC86WBZRZ000
2. More difficult: Replace the triac: P.N.=BTA16-600CW (ST Microelectronics): http://www.st.com/internet/com/TECHNICAL_RESOURCES/TECHNICAL_LITERATURE/DATASHEET/CD00002265.pdf

The PCB costs about $25.00 from Sears, whereas the triac costs about $1.50. Sears will not sell the triac - you'll have to find an electronics parts supplier.

You can sometimes find the PCB from a 3rd-party supplier. For example, this one on EBay: Mel-Co KC86WBZRZ000