Generator has b post and l post wich one do i polorize to

Hi Lonne! After such a long time the magnetism will have dropped out in the alternator. But don't worry this is an easy fix.
1.If fitted, turn Voltage Changeover/selector switch to highest output available on the generator (usually 220~230v)

2.Re-install the AVR/Capacitor (if capacitor be sure the connections go in original position)
3.Start generator running and turn on all breakers
4.Plug in corded drill
5.Pull trigger and turn drill head in reverse direction 10 rotations (anticlockwise when looking from behind the drill)
6.Pull drill trigger to see if power has been restored.
7.If no power or power low after this procedure, replace the AVR/Capacitor and run for 20 minutes without load to re-magnetize and stabilize the field.

If it does not produce any power after this please see our video on testing the alternator (2nd video down) https://www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/

We are always happy to help if you have any questions or need any parts.

Kind regards,
The Generator Guru Team
www.GeneratorGuru.com



Generator Guru

cant answer that one
5 kva diesel generator ....
needs a volt meter and or electrician to
ask why wire is disconnected
check regulator isnt faulty
and identify the right wire from its regulator to the right connection

To test the output of the generator, remove the "A" and the "F" terminal wires. Using a volt meter, set it to measure a DC voltage of 50 volts. Connect the positive (red) volt meter lead to the "A" terminal and the negative (black) lead to a good ground on the engine or frame. Start the engine and bring the speed to 2000 RPM. MOMENTARILY connect a jumper wire from the "F" terminal to an engine or frame ground. The voltmeter should read 25-30 volts DC.

If the generator fails this test, there are lots of other test that you can do but they require a testing tool known as a "growler" to test the armature. I haven't seen one of those things in years.

It might be that your generator may only need a new set of brushes in it. If your generator has an inspection band around it, loosen and remove the band. Look at the brushes. If they're used up, you'll need to replace them.

To get to the brushes, you'll need to remove the generator from the engine. Take the wires off the two terminals on the generator. Mark the wires so you don't get them mixed up when you replace them. Now, on the right side of your bike you'll have two larger bolts at the front of your cam cover. Take these two bolts out and the generator will come off the engine.

Now, there will be two small diameter but long bolts that run through the generator. Take these out and remove the end plate. Now, you can get to the brushes. Swap out the brushes with new ones.

Inspect the commutator of the armature. This is the copper looking segmented piece that the brushes ride on. Clean it up with some fine emory cloth and look for bridging between the copper strips. If it looks good, go ahead and reassemble the generator. Put it back on your bike, connect the wires and polarize it. Remember to polarize the generator ON the bike, MOMENTARILY touch a jumper wire from the "A" terminal to the positive post of the battery. To polarize the generator OFF of the engine, momentarily flash the negative battery terminal with the "F" terminal on the generator. Hopefully, you'll be good to go.

http://www.nooutage.com/pto.htm

did you ground it?

loud your battery again and see if ti keep running it down--if yes check the battery loading size it suppose to be around 12-13.
less then 9-10 in most cases it's the alternator cause another thing is your battery could be out of work