I want to use electric for heating my water but upon inspection I found that the wires for my switch on the back of the tank were disconnected partially. The model of water tank is Atwood GC6AA-9E. I've searched for days online and can only find help for GC6AA-10E which uses a different switch.

Tankless or hybrid water heater?

Tankless gas must have special fitting between water heater and vent that has a condensate line fitting. Hot toxic vent gasses traveling up vent pipe cause acidic water vapor to form inside vent pipe that drips back down vent and drips onto heat exchanger and other parts eventually burning hole through expensive metal alloy heat exchanger, rendering tankless computer water heater useless after electric circuitry gets wet and shorts out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html#vent

Hybrid or heat pump type computer water heaters must have condensate drain connected to catch pan located just above storage tank and below compressor. Condensation can form on condenser coils and drip into catch pan where there is primary and secondary drain
http://waterheatertimer.org/Review-GE-Heat-Pump-water-heater.html#maintenance

Read product manual
Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following link for tank-type electric water heater wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

For tankless electric:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

For tankless gas, hybrid, combo, boiler, indirect, solar, heat pump, etc then re-post question with specific brand and model number for possible help

For switches, timers, lights etc:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Ordinary tank-type electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner.

A) Rheem electric water heater website:
http://www.rheem.com/products/tank_water_heaters/electric_water_heaters/
Find age of Rheem: look 3rd and 4th digit of serial number, for example 06 is 2006

B) Water heater has some hot water.
That says certain things: upper element is working, water heater electricity is working, reset button is not tripped, and heater is not experiencing run-away overheating event.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

C) That leaves 4 suspects.

1) TP valve is running hot water out of tank, or leaking faucet is running hot water out of tank.
Check for leaks
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

2) Lower element is burned out.
Test lower element using inexpensive multi-meter from Home Depot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace element with same wattage shown on label, and clean out sediment:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad.
Replace both thermostats for about $25.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

3) Burned or shorted wire located between upper and lower sections of tank.
Turn off power. Open covers on side of tank. Remove insulation. Inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning. Especially check lower element. Tighten any loose wires. Replace part that shows signs of burning.
Put insulation and cover back over thermostats so cooler outside temperature doesn't cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Ordinary tank-type electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner.

A) Basic info on Rheem
Rheem electric water heater website:
http://www.rheem.com/products/tank_water_heaters/electric_water_heaters/
Find age of Rheem: look 2nd and 3rd digit of serial number, for example 06 is 2006

B) Water heater has some hot water.
That says certain things: upper element is working, water heater electricity is working, reset button is not tripped, and heater is not experiencing run-away overheating event.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

C) That leaves 4 suspects that cause lower amount of hot water.

1) TP valve is running hot water out of tank -or- leaking faucet is running hot water out of tank.
Check for leaks
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

2) Lower element is burned out.
Test lower element using inexpensive multi-meter from Home Depot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace element with same wattage shown on label, and clean out sediment:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad.
Replace both thermostats for about $25.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

3) Burned or shorted wire located between upper and lower sections of tank.
Turn off power. Open covers on side of tank. Remove insulation. Inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning. Especially check lower element. Tighten any loose wires. Replace part that shows signs of burning.
Put insulation and cover back over thermostats so cooler outside temperature doesn't cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

You have electric water heater.
Electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner, excluding hybrid type.

Rheem electric water heaters:
http://www.rheem.com/products/tank_water_heaters/electric_water_heaters/
Rheem fury series manuals and models
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619

Age of Rheem water heater is shown first 4 digits of serial number located on side of tank: for example 0705 means July 2005.
Serial number also shows model number & wattage of elements in case you need to buy new generic 4-bolt type 4500 Watt element from hardware store.

A) If your water heater receives very cold incoming water, it may not heat fast enough to keep tank warm.
Add a tempering tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tempering-tank.html
Add insulation over entire water heater except TP valve. Insulate pipes completely.
Read more information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

B) 40 or 50 gallon water heater is 240Volts and tank will have 2 access panels on front.
Rheem ships all water heaters with 4500 Watt elements.

Narrow down the suspects:
C) Water heater has some hot water.
This tells us upper element is working.
And that water heater electricity is working.
And that reset button is not tripped.
And that heater is not experiencing run-away overheating event.

That gives us 3 solid suspects.
1) lower element is burned out. Test lower element using inexpensive multi-meter from Home Depot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace element with same wattage shown on label, and clean out sediment:
This will restore water heater to full 99% efficiency.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for about $25.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
If you want to test thermostats and all parts before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

3) Burned or shorted wire. Turn off power. Open covers on side of tank. Remove insulation. Inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning. Especially lower element. Tighten any loose wires. Replace part that shows signs of burning.
Put insulation and cover back over thermostats so cooler outside temperature doesn't cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

Rheem 4500 watt element

1) Your water heater needs to be replaced.
It cannot be repaired.
Tanks rust out after anode rod is depleted unless anode is inspected and replaced 1-3 years.
Water softener causes anode to deplete quicker, so inspect every 2 years.
Also stray household current can cause tank to rust out. Put bare copper ground wire between hot and cold pipes on new heater.

2) First thing is protect yourself from tank rupture where water heater bursts open and water runs until it's shut off. Ruptured tanks are big topic in homeowner insurance industry today because they cause major damage inside house.

- Turn off heat source so tank is not under pressure:
Gas: Rotate dial to pilot so pilot light stays lit, but burner does not turn on
Electric: turn off circuit breaker

- Turn off water going into tank using shut off above tank.
- Open hot side to bathtub to relieve pressure from tank.
- Check label on side of tank to get tank specifications for replacement.

3) What to do until replacement.
You can get by for a while on leaking tank by turning it ON only when needed.
Make sure tank is full of water before turning heat source back on.
This will buy time until replacement.
Electric tank heats 21 gallons water per hour.
Gas water heater 41 gallons per hour
Shower uses 6-9 gallons hot water, bath uses 12-15 gallon hot water.

4) Additional reading so next tank lasts longer
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html

First thing is to cut power supply off at the breaker box. Next turn main water to the water heater off. Once power and water is cut of to the water heater you are now ready to drain the tank for element removal.
Once water is drained remove wires from element and remove with socket if it is that type of element or 4 bolt type.

Upon starting putting it all back together remember to open all faucet's hot side to purge out all air out of system before turning power back on.
Water need's to be running out of faucet's and no air before cutting power on. If you turn it on before air is out of system it will damage th enew element you just installed.

Make sure switch on water heater at back where electrical wire is attached is in the on position, as well as any breaker marked for water heater. Some RV's also share a connection at a switch by counter in kitchen that only allows either microwave, or water heater, not both at same time. Possible that ECO, Thermostat assy in behind black cover on outside may be faulty, but not very likely. If you verify that there is hydro to connection at back of tank, I would suspect element is faulty. Not uncommon to burn element out if it was on, before tank was full of water, or when tank was emptied for some reason.

If the lower heating element burns out the upper element will heat the top part of the tank then shutoff. homw depot/lowes etc should carry elements. 1 turn off breaker, remove element access cover (the 2 panels on the front of the heater) test for electricity at the reset button ( uppermost device in upper panel) to make sure power is off. 2 turn off water (I usually turn off the cold water main to stop water cross feeding into hot supply line back into heater) 3 disconnect the 2 wires on the lower element, test with continuity tester. shhould be no continuity between terminals and tank, but around 10 ohms between the 2 terminals. Check the thermostat for continuity if tank is cold thermostat should be closed ie zero ohms across the 2 terminals.
If stat is bad replace stat; disconnect wires push it up out of the spring clip insert new stat reconnect. If element is bad: drain tank. connect garden hose to tank drain valve, open tank drain valve turn water main on to clear rust sediment and get water flowing. Next remove filter screen from a hot water faucet then turn on ( a hot faucet upstairs or higher than tank drain). Now turn water main off, air will now go in through hot faucet and tank will drain, takes about an hour. Use a water heater element wrench about$10 to remove element(s) make sure no bits of rubber gasket are left in element opening- dig em out with a screwdriver if needed. Insert new element with its gasket and tighten. reconnect wires DO NOT TURN ON ELECTRICITY! BE SURE TO FILL WATER HEATER WITH WATER ! Turn water main back on -air will come out of the hot faucet for several minutes. When water runs without any air sputtering, turn off faucet and replace the faucet filter screen. check element(s) for leaks. turn breaker back on.

Hi..my name is Keith...you can try to blow air into the drain valve to unclog the debris and see if it will drain..but if it has that much debris i think i would replace the hot water heater..also it has a sacrificial rod inside of it..and if it is melted away then the water will eat at your heaters liner and will eventually eat a hole in it...i hope this has helped