Akai cassette deck eating tapes

SOURCE: NAKAMICHI CASSETTE DECK 1 NOT PLAYING?

it has probably thrown the capstan belt and will require a new belt fitted. the transport relies on capstan rotation to engage play. a separate reel motor operates ff/rew and takeup funtions

SOURCE: Left Deck Door Stuck Shut on Cassette Deck

The cassette mechanism has a large gear that rotates to different positions for the different modes. On time around is a play - stop cycle. It is stuck in one position and won't come around to the stop spot. Need to take the cover off and help it to turn to get the cassette out. Then figure out if something is wrong preventing it from turning or if the wheel driving it is the problem. They are all a little different so this is where your mechanical apptitude comes in.
By the way, you'll figure out right away they don't intend these things to be fixed.
Hope Ya Fix It.

SOURCE: My Teac Z-7000 will not record tapes

Hello,
some weeks ago I got this really impressive deck (Teac Z 7000) from a colleague, and found the same problem. I fixed it, and the fix is not too complicated. It´s the potentiometers that do fail. All pots are from the same manufacturer (Alps) and construction. The problem is that the wisher is broken away from the holding plastic and will loose contact completely. You can check that with a normal ohmmeter: You´ll find the total resistance over the outer terminals but endless resistance from one of the outer terminals to the middle wisher contact. The values are: 100 kOhm linear for each of the upper left pots (fader,space), 2x22kOhm pos.log. for the lower left pot (phone volume). So, what does a broken wisher at the "fade in" pot do? The Recorder "thinks" that You selected an "endless" fade in time, and the result is : no record level. You can do an easy "quick and dirty" fix just to see if that´s the problem: Hold- or better solder- a say 47kOhm resistor in parallel to the conducted potentiometer terminals and try to record.
4 of 5 pots have been defective in my deck, and I´ve replaced them with standard types from my local electronic supplier (Conrad electronic, has a shop in Frankfurt/Main). Well, the new parts didn´t fit perfectly, I used a file to get them in (not visible from outside). Also I lost the possibility of pushing the knobs in and out, but that is not a really problem.
I assume this fix might also help owners of the Teac Z-6000 and Z-5000, which- most probably- use the same type of potentiometers.
This text was written by Boris Witke, Kelsterbach (near Frankfurt/Main), Germany. E-Mail:
[email protected] Please tell me if You were successful, possibly we get lucky users of these really fascinating machines.

SOURCE: Sony Dual-Deck Cassette Player/Recorder, doors won't close

Are both sides not staying shut? If it's only one side, look to see if the latch is broken. You should see an arm move when you press down the eject button - while the door is open, press the eject button and see where the arm moves. You should see a hook that catches the door and keeps it closed. It could be broken, or just jammed. Look at the other side of the deck and see it it looks like it's working the same. Unjam the latch arm if it's stuck, or replace it if it's broken.

SOURCE: Nakamichi BX-2 Cassette Deck Takeup Reel

I had sorta the same problem and I just fixed it. Mine was making clicking noises and jerking the tape causing speed variations and pitch changes, Uggghh. The FF, Rew, and take up functions are not belt driven like most decks. There is a little idler wheel between the motor and the take up axle. Take the whole transport assembly loose from the front of the deck...slide it back 3 inches . Take off the ground wire screw, and 3 screws holding the transport mechanism in place :...1 screw on top, 2 on bottom. Take the black front faceplate off of the drive...2 little screws. This exposes everything.The little idler wheel has a press on tiny,tiny piece of clear plastic holding it onto its little axle. Be hella careful. Use a tiny eyeglass screwdriver to pry it up and off. Dont lose it. Pull the idler wheel off. The rubber has hardened and slips. Pry the rubber rim off of the white plastic pulley using the tiny screwdriver. Put on an O ring that just fits. Scruff up the perimeter of the O ring with 220 sandpaper, Easy does it. Idler wheel goes back in, press on the little plastic retainer, put the black metal plate back on( 2 screws at top), slide the transport mechanism back into the front panel, secure with 3 screws, ground strap, replace cover. Clean heads, demagnetise, badda bing, badda boom.