Belling range electric cooker 60a both ovens are working but the top plates don’t work at all is they a thermal cutout on them or fuse where is that located seems like no power going to the job plates at all Thanks All Thanks all

For that type access is normally by removing screws at the side.

Belling CFE60MFTC

https://www.google.com/search?q=Belling+cfe60mftc+replace+oven+control+Knob

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The thermal fuse inside rear is faulty. The grill also has it's own thermal fuse so make sure you change the correct one.

The thermal fuse in the back of the oven is faulty. If you have a multimeter, select OHMS and check across both terminals of the fuse will show it to be open-circuit. You can compare with the grill thermal fuse. Change the oven thermal fuse and it should be ok. While you're checking this, may be you can solve my problem. both your oven elements will have one terminal connecte together by a grey wire then both earths connected by green/yellow wire, the remaining terminal hopefully has a yellow wire, can you tell me where the other end is connected to.

The grill element IS the heat source for the Top Oven.

Found this online - £101.99

Belling Stainless Steel Cooker Control Panel for DB90

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/cookers-and-hobs/belling/db90/p/1092/154/0/538873/547712/stainless-steel-cooker-co.html

Check fuses first. locate the model number and call manufacturer's toll free hotline.

It could also be the micro temp thermal fuse which cost about a £2.00 to replace and has to be fitted with crimps (NOT SOLDER). This is located behind the large back panel and should be replaced by a qualified Electrician.

I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN ! But i have had the same problem of the oven and the back right ring not working and have found the cause of this. For some reason there is a thermal fuse running inline on a live wire inside the cooker if you feel competent yourself in replacing this fuse you will save a good deal of money on call out fees, here is how to do it. SAFETY is the crucial, First of all isolate the power source to the cooker, pull out cooker so you can get access to the back of the cooker, remove the 9 screws ( i think there is 9) to remove the back plate from the cooker, this is quite heavy because there is a small block of concrete fastened to the bottom left hand side of the back plate, looking at the inside of the cooker on the right hand side you will see a white wire which has been secured via a small screwed clip, this wire has a transparent sleeve covering the thermal fuse, remove the sleeve by sliding it up or down the wire, check the fuse by with a meter just to be sure, if it is blown cut the fuse out. replace fuse the same way it was fitted. replace the sleeve and fit the back on the cooker SAFETY FIRST switch on power and try oven and back ring, mine works fine. like i said at the start i am not an electrician, but i can not understand why there is a thermal fuse running inline to the oven which is linked the back right hob. all the best folks Hobbo from Chess.

It may be the oven thermostat needs replacing.