Video help
SOURCE: rangemaster 110
it is not at all obvious.
from memory, there are 2 screws on the lhs side of the plate which remove and the plate will then move sideways but may be difficult to shift
SOURCE: RANGEMASTER 110 Cooker FLAME FAILURE DEVICE fitting
My progress to date (20090127):
1 Turn off the gas supply to the oven
2 Turn off the electricity supply
3 Remove the oven linings
4 Remove the storage drawer
5 Remove the three screws holding on the bottom trim and the trim
6 Crank up the front roller
7 Pull out the oven carefully making sure the gas hose and electrical lead are long enough and not caught
8 Working from the rear of the Rangemaster, for the right-hand oven, remove the four screws on the corners of the large cover plate at the back of the oven about half way down on the left-hand side as viewed from the back.
9 Remove the cover plate.
10 Go to the front of the oven. Above the burner assembly, towards the left is a thin metal rod running front to back. This is held in place by a clip at the back and by the hole in the metal frame at the front. Remove the metal clip at the back using a pair of long-nosed pliers. Retain the clip.
11 This should release the metal rod (flame sensing device) and you should be able to push it through the hole and out at the back. It is attached to a long copper wire.
12 Go to the back of the range. You should be able to work the wire back through the hole in the rear metal plate and up to the gas valve. The wire is held in place at the gas valve by a bent clip on the rear right. Carefully bend this clip back towards the oven to release the wire.
13 The wire goes down under the gas valve and to a threded bolt end into the bottom of the gas valve ad the bolt is held in place using a locking nut.
14 Remove the locking nut using a small spanner. The threded bolt should now turn, with the aid of long-nosed pliers.
15 The next trick is to remove this threaded bolt on the end of the copper wire and I have not figured out how to do that. It will unscrew a good way but becomes tight and will not come out, as though something inside the valve is holding it in place. Could it be that the flame sensing device has to be removed and inserted from inside the gas valve? If so, what a daft piece of engineering this is.
16 HELP.
SOURCE: Rangemaster 110 oven heats by itself
That happens either because the timer control is faulty, or because there is a contact on the element wires or connectors, and the element is grounded.
Control board and wiring harness are tested using a multimeter.
Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:
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SOURCE: What do I look for? Rangemaster Kitchener 110
Problem solved, took the back off the inside of oven and the element had a huge burn hole in it. Brought a new element from the local spares shop £17+vat. Easy to fit and it works better than ever.
SOURCE: leisure rangemaster 110 fan oven
There are 3 possibilities:
Faulty thermostat
Faulty wiring
Faulty oven control switch
Thermostats fail more often in the closed position which means your oven will overheat so I'd test the wiring first. You'll need an Ohm meter to do this. TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST, expose the element and switch then trace the wires from the live and neutral terminals on the element back to the switch. If you can't trace them, make a note of their colours (at the element end) and test for continuity/resistance with wires of the same diameter and colour at the switch. You should get a reading of zero ohms if you have good continuity.
The easiest way to check the switch is visually. Make a note of the wiring colours and their positions on the switch terminals, disconnect them and remove the switch. See if anything looks broken or the
Some thermostats can be disassembled and inspected, but I don't recommend it unless you know what you're doing. The gap between the thermostat switch contacts needs to be precise or the oven wont heat to the correct temperate.
If you can establish that the wiring and switch are OK, try replacing the thermostat.
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