I need to know how to place the chain back on the gears

Simple Mechanical gear reduction, big gear to small gear. Gears are changed by moving the chain over until it loops on the next gear via cable input from the operator. The system that moves the chain around is called a "de-railer"

The cable for the chain shift mechanism (derailleur) has slipped or broken. The cable will need to be loosened down by the chain then put your shifter in the position closest to the gear it is actually in, then pull the cable snug and hold it while you tighten the cable. This will also verify that the cable is working. There are position limit adjusters so the shift mechanism should be in the correct position on one of the gears when there is no tension on the cable.

It's pretty straightforward changing the tires on the loop. I'm a big guy and the standard 65 PSI tires it comes with are ****. two blowouts already in the rear, most likely due to poor weight distribution. But Whatever the reason you have, here's how to change the rear tire.

1. You'll need to grab a 15mm wrench or socket & ratchet combo. Remember, righty tighty lefty loosey.
2. Remove the rear derailleur gear guard, it just sort of falls off. Store it somewhere safe until you're ready to reassemble everything.
3. Gently pull upward on the wheel once both bolts are removed. Carefully pull the derailleur away from wheel gears as you pull it upward and out of the gear system entirely.
4. Done with that part and the wheel should be out! Do whatever repairs that are necessary for the removal of the wheel, possibly changing a tube, I don't know. You needed it out, now it's out.

5. Reassembly is easy enough. Make sure the wheel isn't fully inflated while reassembling. The brakes on the Schwinn loop are tiny little things, you'll need to pinch to get it past where it needs to be again.


6. Move the derailleur gears out of the way while you move the wheel back into place, then slowly remount the chain onto the wheel gear assembly. It's very intuitive, you'll see exactly what you need to do here.



7. Throw that rear derailleur gears guard back on there, screw on and tighten those rear bolts and bam! Presto change-o! The tire is changed and you can feel a little more mechanically inclined for the day.



NOTE: Changing the front wheel is also a simple job. You'll use the same 15mm tool, except there are no gears to worry about. Cheers!

Angie, Have patience. It will come to you. There are two levers, because there are two places where the gears change - in the front (by the pedals) and on the back wheel. You might find it easier to just use one lever. Do this--- have someone help you hold the bike so that the back wheel is off the ground. Turn the pedals on the bike and work one shift lever at a time so that you can see which lever is for the front vs. the rear. If you have three gears in the front (the correct name is chain-rings) then leave the front one so that the chain is on the middle chain ring. If there are two, then select the larger one. Now shift the back one (the gears back there are called cogs). You might have 5,6,7 or even 8 cogs back there. Practice shifting the back cogs to see what is happening. If you find that the chain comes off, even when you leave the front on on the middle chain ring, you need an adjustment. Good luck! Al K

Dear,

To get the correct solution, u should firstly get your car engine cleaned with water.
after the water gets soaked off apply some telcum powder at the doubted location amd then you will really find the correct point of leakage......

please get it done and further let me know

All shops charge differently. Call around. Plan on spending about 500 give or take.

Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Hi,

This one's easy enough.. If you move the derailer through it's full stretch you will see that part of it will be blocked in each direction by a small screw. These screw adjusters are to stop the chain from running over the end gears, and sometimes if they're too tight they can stop the chain from reaching the gears in the first place.
A small screwdriver is all you should need, turn the bike upside down, loosen these screws completely and then change gear to one end first until it runs smoothly on the chain and then do the same with the other.
These are designed to be adjustable so you can add or remove gears/change wheel sizes etc and then readjust to run smoothly..

Hope this helps..

There are several things that could be wrong:

Shifter out of adjustment

Chain worn

Chain and gear(s) worn

Shifter out of adjustment:
Try adjusting the cable tension by turning the barrel (the part between the cable and the shifter). Count the number of turns and reset it to its original position if this doesn't solve it.

Chain worn:
Chains wear out. hold a ruler up to it, with one end centered on a pin. 12" away, another pin should like up very very very close to the 12" mark. If not, it's probably worn out and needs to be replaced. No way around it. Some say chains are good for 500 miles only. Your mileage may vary. (keep reading...)

Chain worn and gear(s) worn:
If the bike has been ridden witha worn chain for a while, it will make the gears in the back wear faster too, and a new chain alone will not work. If this is the case, you need a new chain and new gears in the back. Often, gears in the back are replaced all at once in a 'cassette'. You'll have to make sure your front gears aren't worn out too!

I have the same unit, although newer, and just recently, the carburetor got gummed up, and I'm waiting on a rebuild kit. Well, I've been noticing the gear shift isn't as smooth as it could be, and since I've been curious about the drive mechanism, I decided today to split the case and see what the guts look like. Here's what I found. The input shaft is splined, and has a floating gear that is moved along the length of the shaft by a lever attached to the gear indicator outside the case. As the gear lever is moved, this gear engages the other larger gears for reverse, forward, and till. Both the tines and the wheels are chain driven, the tines by a beefy 60 series chain, and the wheels by a smaller 30 or 35 series. There is NO oil. The housing is filled with grease, or rather, should be. Not long after I bought my machine new, I took it for a service to my favorite power equipment place, where we have shopped for over 30 years. They told me they greased up the housing real good, since it sounded 'dry'. Today I noticed what they did. The factory grease was black, while our shop, A-1, uses a premium red bearing lube that all the farmers in our area use for their machines. We swear by it. Anyway, A-1 added probably at least half a tube to the case, and judging by what I saw today, it needed at least that, and probably more. Well, here is the big problem with the drive on this tiller. Chains. . . stretch. New ones stretch quite a bit, and if it stretches enough, the chain will ride over one of teeth on the sprocket and either break the tooth, or more likely, snap the chain. Considering that the entire machine needs to be stripped down to split the case, this design is problematic. A gear unit would be almost maintenance free. Before I put this thing together, I plan to shorten both chains at least half a link, and pack the housing with a good lube. There is a token zerc fitting on the upper part of the machine just above the input shaft. It simply pours grease into the inside of the housing.