I checked the log our 2015 LG LRG3091ST and it has failed 14 times. Just doesn't work.I see there could be several reasons. I'd like to know the most common because I don't have the money to call an LG specialist out for an estimate. Just walking in the door is $125. Then what is my best route for repair of this terrible oven. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
SOURCE: Whirlpool RM988PYVW microwave oven
Wonder what that belt was? This model doesn't seem to use a blet of any kind. This may be a problem with the control panel assembly, which we repair nationwide for $39.95. Full information on our service is available at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk Please feel free to follow up here or privately if you have other questions.
SOURCE: GE Model JES1136WK 01
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking
then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing
the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When
checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read
open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
The TCOs you need to be concerned usually with have black wires. You can ignore the ones with blue / violet wires in this case.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There
should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: TURNTABLE NOT TURNING AT ALL & ALL ELSE WORKS GREAT!
The turntable system consists of the motor, the coupler, the turntable support with rollers, and the tray.
You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.
If
yours won't rotate
or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or
plastic coupler.
To
replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover
of the oven. In some brands, you have to cut the motor cover off with snips, then use a
screw when reassembling it.
We have the service manuals for this model and have uploaded them to our site here and here to help you.
You will need the free Acrobat Reader to view or print it in case you don't have it.
The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics. You can also call them at 866-779-5835.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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