How do you adjust 720-32708 dado blade - Blade Saws

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This is probably because the offsetting tapered discs in the dado are not lined up to compliment each other and your dado is tipping more to one side than the other - if the blade was tipping to the left and right the same amount, both sides would cut to the same depth and the deepest part would be right in the middle. In an extreme case, if the blade tipped only to the right and not to the left, then the left side would cut the deepest and the bottom of the cut would curve up (shallower) to the right.
The same effect could be due to your arbor not being set exactly at 0 or 90 degrees. The angle indicator on the saw is usually not very accurate. Put a regular blade in, raise it up all of the way, then check for squareness between the table and the side of the blade (using a known good square). Adjust the tilt until you are good, then put the adjustable dado back in.
Good luck!

Dado blades come in sets with two side blades and a series of center blades to widen the cut. The no of blades put in the center sets the inital cut, and a series of these cuts can widen the cut farther. The poor mans dado can be done by a series of single saw cuts (kerfs) across a measured distance, moving the fence a small amount each time and then taking a chisel and working the waste out of the slot. For a primer on Dados, see: http://www.newwoodworker.com/hottodado.html

Dado blades are used in a variety of saw applications. Commonly tables saws. The manual for your table saw should identify if the saw is capable of using this blade-set Never used dado blades in a saw that is not intended for them as this can result in severe injury to yourself and or damge to the tool. If your are unsure if your saw can accomodate dado blade please post your make and model of saw and someone will try to help you.

The 15 amp 3 hp motor has plenty of power to handlee dado sets and you can purchase a dado blade insert for the saw on line from multiple resources

The shims are placed between the blades and chippers in a stack. they are used to make very small adjustments to the final dado width... So usually you set up your dado set for a specific width of cut according to your blade chart, then make a test cut... If you need to widen the cut very slightly, add some shims in between the blades as required to get a good fit on whatever material you are joining or putting into the dado etc.

Hope that makes sense!
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Yes. normally an eight inch stack dado set is used on a 10 inch saw. You will also have to purchase or fabricate a special throat plate (non-metallic) to accomodate the extra thickness of the dado set.
The number of blades used, and therefore the thickness, varies depending upon the task at hand.
Make sure to use the factory supplied nut and washer to capture and tighten the dado set securely on the arbor.
Be very cautious in the use of dados. Do not raise the set higher than 1/4" or so until you are familiar with the use of a dado set. Try to avoid so-called "wobble" dado sets. They are IMHO more prone to dangerous kickbacks and harder to adjust than a stack dado set with dado shims.

I'm hesitant to even answer, not knowing your skill level. But understanding that you will probably have a use for an item you purchased, and use it one way or another, here's a primer...
Be careful! Never push your hand directly toward the rotating saw such that if the workpiece kicks back your momentum will carry your hand into the blade. Begin by raising the blade only a little above the table surface and run a pass with clean wood over it to get the feel of the resistance a stack of dado blades gives. Consider making a groove in two or more passes if you need to raise the blade more than 1/4" to cut it in a single pass. Use metal dado shims to adjust the precise width of cut. Tighten the stack in a balanced way, such that the carbide teeth are not in contact with one another. Stay away from wobble dado sets. Etc. Etc. Etc.
You may wish to have a look at this website, whose author has obviously given the subject considerable thought: http://www.newwoodworker.com/usngstkddados.html

Finally, be carefull. If you think a single saw blade can tear flesh, imagine what a 3/4" wide swath will do to your hand. Think about your setups. Use test pieces to get them right. Then pay attention while you run your dados. And try to avoid plunge cuts, especially on anything shorter than a couple of feet in length. When you can, use a miter jig in the slot to hold any work you have to pass cross-grain over the dado.
Be careful, feed smoothly, and hold your workpiece firmly against the fence while it passes over the blade.

no good solution for that problem. dado blades vibrate and cause the knob to turn. possibly a clamp on the knob to keep it in place.

tom