Pictures are a big help. but the best idea is a plugged filter or a bad run capacitor, bring it to your local pool pump motor repair guy with free testing and have it checked
jay Longwood fl 32750
SOURCE: pool pump starts and stops
The thermal cutout is turning it off, then it turns on after it cools. When it runs does it pump water? The pump may be dragging from a bad bearing or a clogged impeller. Make sure the suction filter is clean. I would suggest hiring a pro pump company to diagnose the problem further.
Please mark helpful if it was. Thanks
SOURCE: pool pump burned out - Wayne WIP150
You can go and buy a new motor, but that is about it...short of having the motor rewound, but I think you would find this to be a more costly option.
SOURCE: HI, HOW TO CONNECT 2
The WH 40 is a double throw switch, meaning that it will switch two contacts simultaneously. If you are switching the pool pumps with this WH 40 they will all switch at the same time without the desired delay. (You do not mention how the pumps are switched).
To connect the timer for the elements, a live and a neutral are needed to run the clock.
A live is connected to the two switched 'in' terminals and two wires must then be run to each of the coils on each of the two relays.. A separate live must go to each pole of each relay, the switched live then goes through the thermostats and to the elements.
A neutral must also go straight to the neutral side of each relay coil and to each element, unless you are using double pole relays, in which case you can switch both the neutral and the live wires going to the relays (this is the preferred circuit). Then each switched live will go to a thermostat and the switched neutral will go the other terminal of the heater element. The elements you are using are very heavy and your relays will have to be able to handle around 120 amps at 110 volts or about 60 amps at 220 volts. At 220 volts your 40 amp contactors will only handle 8.8 kw with no safety margin.
If you want a safety feature to time the pumps and elements separately, you will either need two timers or perhaps a pressure switch or flow switch to isolate the heaters when the pump pressure or flow falls.
Come back to me if this layout does not agree with what you have in mind or I have not made any point clear enough.
SOURCE: Our pool/spa pump will cut
If the motor is very hot it could be shutting off due to a thermal safety device.
Anything that makes the motor work too hard and/or heat up will trigger this.
Blockage in the water lines
Clogged pool filter
Worn motor bearings
Lack of air flow around the motor
Weak or damaged motor windings.
A defective thermal limit switch will **** off the pump when the pump is within heat and load limits.
SOURCE: swimming pool pump runs at
It sounds like it may be time to change the sand or DE media. After time the sand and or DE media tends to get packed down reducing the water flow and increasing the pressure.
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