37 horsepower vanguard voltage regulator what voltage is supposed to go to stator and what voltage should be at the other end while running

Its better u take it to a motorcycle service, they can check the voltage that the scooter produces to charge the battery, maybe its the regulator or the magnetic field.

30 ac

Check regulator ground by using an ohmmeter with one lead on a known good ground, such as the battery ground cable, and the other on the regulator base.
The connection where the alternator stator wires plug into the regulator could be corroded/dirty and need to be cleaned and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and protected with dielectric grease because corroded wires going to the battery or alternator from the stator or the regulator will affect the ability of the charging system to properly charge a battery.

Motorcycle voltage regulator connections must be clean and tight for proper operation so it must be verified that both the AC (stator) connections and the DC (battery supply side) connectors are clean, fully inserted and locked in place with the regulator latches (they should also be coated with dielectric grease to keep them clean and corrosion free).

The motorcycle voltage regulator is a series regulator that is also a rectifier that changes stator supplied alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) which the battery system requires. If the charging system does not keep the battery properly charged both with regards to Voltage (between 13 VDC minimum and 15.5 VDC maximum) and the current supply at a high enough amperage to meet the system lighting, ignition, TSM/TSSM, security and accessory requirements plus a minimum of 3.5 more amps (3.5 amps more than the foregoing system requirements) there are a number of tests that can be done to ascertain why.

As the voltage regulator must have a good, clean, tight (and otherwise secure) ground connection for proper operation a Voltage Regulator Ground Circuit Test can be accomplished by connecting an ohmmeter to a known good ground (like the battery negative post) and the case of the regulator. If there is continuity with little resistance the ground is GOOD and nothing more needs to be done BUT if there is NO continuity or there is more than minimal resistance the ground will need to be fixed so there is a low resistance continuity by either locating and fixing the poor ground or adding a new grounding wire from the regulator case to a know good ground.

A Voltage Regulator Power Circuit Test can be accomplished by turning OFF the Ignition, disconnecting the voltage regulator and with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting, testing for continuity between the voltage regulator wire harness supply terminal and the main fuse terminal (with the fuse removed) and if there is continuity present then the wiring circuit here is GOOD but if there is NO continuity then you will need to either find the open and repair it or replace the whole wire running from the voltage regulator to the main fuse.

As there should be no short circuit in the power supply from the regulator to battery (main fuse) wiring OR in the regulator internal circuitry continuity from these both need to be checked again with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting. If the regulator to main fuse wiring connector is not disconnected from the regulator you can connect an ohmmeter with one lead on the regulator supply wire terminal end at the main fuse (with the main fuse removed) and the other lead to a known good ground. If there is NO continuity then you know that both the supply wire and the regulator are okay (as there is no short to ground). BUT if there is continuity then either the regulator or wiring or both is/are shorted to ground. To determine where there is a short circuit (i.e. either the wiring or the regulator internal circuitry) you must disconnect the DC side of the wiring harness (the connector at the DC side of the regulator) from the regulator and test between either or both ends of the wire i.e. from the regulator wire harness.

AC Output Check
Disconnect the voltage regulator connector from the alternator stator wiring and then connect an AC voltmeter across both stator sockets of a two wire stator, or if a three wire stator across two of the three for example 1 & 3 and then later you will repeat the test between 2 & 3 and later between 1 & 2. THEN run the engine at as close as possible in the circumstances to 2000 RPM. The AC output should be approximately 32-40 VAC, approximately 16-20VAC per 1000 RPM. If you have done a stator static test and the stator has proven to be in good mechanical condition and the AC output is below specifications, the charging problem is going to be a faulty rotor. If you have not done a static stator check yet and the AC output is less than as set out above it may be that the stator is defective and the static stator check will need to be done. While the regulator has nothing whatsoever to do with the alternator output, if the alternator output is good the regulator might be defective in either rectification or in limiting the output to the battery to under 15 VDC. If AC output is low and the stator has passed the static stator check then it is likely that the permanent magnets in the alternator rotor are weak. A permanent magnet can lose its magnetic strength if it is dropped or shocked such as letting it snap into place when being installed or possibly by use of an impact wrench to remove the compensator fastener etc.

If this is a briggs engine, depending on the type of charging circuit it has, the AC voltage from the stator under the flywheel should be around 28 to 30 VAC and the DC Voltage coming out of the voltage regulator with it disconnected should be around 14 VDC.. If the voltage is lower than 28VAC from the stator then it is a bad stator. If the stator voltage is good and the regulator is putting out less than 13 to 14VDC that the regulator is bad.

ENGINE OFF,UNPLUG the regulator, test continuity from each conductor to ground on the stator, if you have continuity STATOR IS SHORTED... if you test voltage OUTPUT at the stator, it should be around ten volts AC! NOT DC! per thousand RPM... THEN use a 12 volt test lite from regulator leads to ground, if ANY light happens at either lead, BAD regulator

swap the stators

The stator is essentially an alternator (generator) that produces alternating current (ac). The rectifier converts the ac currect to direct current (dc). This dc currect is not very stable and is considered noisy. Alcohol, the voltage os proportional to the engine speed (rpms). Therefore a voltage regulator is added to keep the voltage at an acceptable level and not damage anything on the circuit (battery, radio, even headlights have a shorter life if too mush voltage is sent to them. If the stator is burned out (common on bikes from the early/mid 1980s, then there is no current produced and the battery ends up powering the system when you ride. The battery will eventually die and your bike will stop running. Hope this has what you need.

According to the parts pdf, there is no voltage regulator. Voltage is adjusted by the rpm of the engine. If your have a meter that reads hertz (Hz), you can set the engine rpm by adjusting hertz to 60 cycles (Hz). At 60 cycles the engine is running at about 3600 rpm. Most engines develop their max horsepower at this rpm. If you are loosing power/voltage and the engine speed is not dropping below 3600, than most likely could be problem with capacitor, brushes or diode (bridge diode). The diode converts ac voltage from stator to direct current to power the magnet (rotor). Check for brush wear and test capacitor for value printed on part. It should test with 5% of stated value. Diode can also be easily tested with meter. Good holidays

If you were drawing major power from generator, you may have fried capacitor or voltage regulator. Both of these parts tend to make smoke when they fail. Stator winding can fail also but rare. Remove end cap to generator. Look for melted strings that bind coils together or melted wires. This would indicate failed stator. If stator looks ok, look for capacitors that look swollen or leaking that my be easily replaced. Caps have a value printed on them and reading should be within 5%. If caps are good, look at half moon shaped regulator. Failed regulator will have melted potting compound. Good luck

YES ITS DEFINATLEY NOT CHARGING SO THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS THE RIGHT PLACE TO START