SOURCE: I have an Amana bottom
Typically with this model it is either the timer or the defrost thermostat.
This is behind the back wall of the freezer. It is attached in series with the element. It is designed to open when the heater gets hot enough. The part is about the size of a stack of 6 quarters and typically has a blue end coating on one end. The other end is silver in colour and should be clipped on the black coloured heating element. It will have 2 wires coming out of the blue end.
If this part is defective then it will have to be replaced. by cutting a splicing a new one in. Be sure to unplug the fridge before replacing it.
There are 3 main components that can give issues; the timer, the thermostat and the heater. All 3 should be checked to confirm the fault. NOTE the timer contacts can be burned out as they arc under normal operation.
If you have a multimeter then you can check if the heater circuit has 0 or close to 0 resistance when there is frost on the back wall of the freezer. if it is then the timer is bad.
SOURCE: freezer working fine but fridge isn't
Either the damper that the air flows up through is closed or the return air flow vents are blocked with clear ice.
Do you feel the air come out all the way at the top of the duct assembly when the freezer door is opened (but it then stops when the door is closed)?
If so, then it sounds like your return air flow vents are clogged. These are located to the left and right of the duct assembly in the rear/bottom of the refrigerator section. Sometimes you may have to slowly pour hot water into these vents to get the clear ice to thaw. The water should go down into the freezer section behind the evaporator and then out the drain in the back.
If you do not get the air to flow out the top of the duct assembly then the damper is staying shut. This could be either a bad damper in the duct assembly or the main board my not be sending voltage to the damper. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: not cooling enough
sometimes you do everything proper and when repair is done another failure occurs because of long run times because not defrstng . the orginal freon charge may have been alittle on the low side and weakened the compressor what you can do is tap the seal system and add 1/2 of the orginal charge listed below the model # should be 134a this will often work for quite some time and remove the panel off the evap in the frzr and observe the frosting on the coils it should be uniform on the evap with no places getting missed if you can not tell temporily move frzr item and unplug to allow frost to thaw then plug back in and open door allow to run 30 min then look at again if only on part of the evap perhaps top or the lower then you know the orginal charge was low then add freon it sound you are very mech person and possible you may need to add the orginal charge to unit (the compressor has taken heat and it has weakened it)
SOURCE: Recently my refrigerator was not
The symptoms you describe indicate (Obviously) that there is a severe issue with the refrigerant system.
My take is either the Freon is low (Which also helps cool the compressor) and/or the compressor is failing.
I'm pretty sure there is nothing at a user level you can do to resolve this and more that likely it is quite possible that you may find it cost effective to replace the unit (especially if it is more than 10 years old) than to continue having it serviced.
I'd definitely be on the phone with that service rep letting him know that he didn't get it tight the 1st time. Most home size refrigerators are are sealed circuit systems an are not generally re-chargeable with Freon in the Field.
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