Question about Karcher Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: fuel starvation mazda bongo
Bongo 2.5 Tdi. WL-T.
Everything fine untill 20 minutes after fueling up the engine started to run rough when stopped(at idle). I shut down. Couldn't restart. Next morning started up and ran fine. later on, wouldn't start easily and when it did couldn't rev above 800rpm. another time started but no power.
Seems like fuel starvation. I just bought the van and have sent away for workbook, fuel filter, glow plugs etc. Where is the fuel filter located? I see where the fuel line goes in to the FCU (or flow devider) is this where i should check presssure. I know a little about petrol engines but nothing about TDI. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Well, first the easy bit... the pulsation is caused by the leak, because the machine can't hold pressure when the trigger is released. The difficult bit is: what to do about it? Unfortunately, there are several different places where the leak can occur and, even with the cover off, it's usually impossible to be sure exactly where the water's coming from. In the repair shop where I work, we almost always replace every part that might be causing trouble without even trying to identify the exact source. To do otherwise will rack the labour costs up so high as to render the job uneconomic. We reckon that if you can't complete the job in 45 minutes it's not worth it. Sad really, but such are the realities of our economics.
Anyway, unless you are a really competent handy-person, this is probably a job you won't want to tackle for yourself. So your choice is either to live with it (and do whatever you can to limit the pulsating time - keep it working or switch it off immediately) or take it to a repair shop. If you are in the UK, Karcher head office can direct you to a repairer, and I guess the same applies in many other countries too.
If you do want to have a go at it yourself, post another message here and I'll give you as much guidance as I can (but there will be a limit to the amount of detail I can provide, as I can't get in to writing a complete service manual!).
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
unfortunately these little units have this problem commonly, 9 times out of 10 it will be the plastic head or the plastic valve block on the unit will be cracked and leaking slightly... it builds up pressure then leaks out and tries to build up the pressure again and this just reoccurs over and over...
you can get this repaired but is normally about half the cost of a new unit, if the pressure is still okay i would probably recommend just keep using it until it proper dies...
If you do get this fixed, we have studied into this and believe the main cause of heads cracking is warm water say if your inlet hose is in the sun for a period of time this can cause the water to become quite hot or if the unit sits and water trapped inside the head assy freezes can also cause this. Hope this helps Kind Regards Brad
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks very much brado83. The cycling interval has now increased, so I am going to try to fix this myself.You have confirmed my part suspicions.Cheers"
If by pulsate you mean the engine R.P.M.'s rising and falling, this is natural. It's the result of the engine reacting to the sudden back pressure in the pump by idling down.
The engine continues to maintain a constant pressure on the water cycling inside the pump while idle. It cycles within the pump because water can't be compressed. If there was no place for it to go, the weakest seal would blow or the engine would die.
When you pull the trigger again the pressure is no longer bogging the engine and the R.P.M.s smooth out.
Also, it's not good for it to be running for any extended length of time without water or the trigger being pulled.
Hope this answers it
Posted on May 02, 2010
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