Question about Karcher Vacuums
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If I may! In most cases the heater is clogged. It might be clogged with soap that has harden over time. You need to take the handle apart. You will see a metal box(thats the heater) besides the wires there are two tubes connected to the heater. remove the tubes but label or watch which tube goes where. now turn the heater upside down. there are 6 screws on the side and 1 in the middle. remove them carefully. the 6 on the side have a small gaskets under them..you don't want to lose them. the 1 in the middle has no gasket, now the bottom plate of the heater can be taken off (there is a gasket with that plate ...be careful . you will now see the long channels inside the heater and need to clean it. the holes where the tubes where connected have to be clean also but carefully. the metal is soft.so it bends. now put it all back. hope this helps. if you want to keep this from happening.the best way is to run clear water after you are done.this will remove any soap in the machine which will harden after the machine drys out. hope I helped .
and to mr. reddevil6 I am learning lots from you. Thanks
Posted on Feb 13, 2008
SOURCE: Pump prime lost
The Bissell 1697 is a temperamental machine. Loosing prime is the biggest problem. I have found that the tanks and top cover are not designed well. The connecting plug on the bottom of the tank does not set deep enough into the female receptacle. When the plastic starts to warp and it will, two things happen. First the push valve on the male side (tank) may not open and secondly, you get air leaks.
The pump wants to pump water with high mass and not air. Once the air purges, it will build pressure. You can watch the lines with the top open and identify where the air is coming from. 90% of the time it is the bottom of the tank fitting.
The fix is to put a spacer under the metal plate holding the male (tank) receptacle in place. A rubber gasket or O-Ring that spaces the plate down about 3/32". The plate must have the holes beveled to recieve flat head screws so they dont stick down and hold the tank off. Use silicon seal. Plate should protrude from the bottom of the tank surface slightly when you are through.
Slipping drive belt to the pump is the second biggest problem. Also if you take the top off, every thing has to go back in place exactly or the top will not fit correctly. Hose routing is critical.
Nozzle's will plug in a heart beat so keep the tank water clean. Make sure you turn the mixture valve to water only and purge the system with water prior to quiting.
One further thing, the vac connections to the tank are crappy. I have to use a foam seal glued to the tank top to mate with the two existing gaskets on the body. Here again the plastic warps and things start not fitting properly.
Most of the problems are related to plastic warping as usual on modern cheap ****.
Retired Mech Eng.
Posted on Mar 14, 2008
You may have mislaid a piece when you took your Bissell apart to clean it after using it the first time.
I experimented with mine to try and reproduce your issue. On the bottom of the water tank, there are two pieces that can be removed from it. One of them looks like a black plug at one end, with a red rubber flange piece on the other end. If you push your finger inside the red rubber piece, you can feel a spring move up and down. This is the first piece you place on the bottom of the water tank. I suspect you have this piece, because if you didn't, water would gush out of the water tank as soon as you turned it over after filling it.
The other piece, which is the one I think you may have have mislaid, is a larger black, plastic ring with screw threads. This piece goes over the top of the first plug piece, screws onto the water tank, and holds the plug in place. The words "RECLOSE TIGHTLY" appear on mine. If this piece is missing, the water tank does not sit flat on the base of the Bissell, but kind of flops around, out-of-place, and the unit will not dispense water properly, though it may leak it.
If ithat piece is gone, it should be possible to reorder it. Start here:
If that's not the problem, if you have all the water tank pieces, I wonder if perhaps you unscrewed one black screw to remove the clear front plastic piece from the base of the unit-- the piece through which water is drawn up off the carpet-- to clean it, and didn't get it back into place properly. Make sure the two hooks at the bottom of this piece are inserted, one per side, into the clear plastic side pieces at the bottom. If the hooks are not secured properly, before trying to reinsert them, unscrew the black plastic screw so you don't break the tab. It's easy to miss getting these one of those hooks back in right, but it's important to do that before trying to screw the clear front plastic piece into place.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
I solved a problem like this on FIXYA, just a few months ago. I gave this solution. Try to fill the machine from somewhere else. You can do this from the outlet. If you manage to do this, put on the machine. ( now you know that when there is hot water in the machine, the tap goes round free for safety). Now as the water starts to cool down....start trying to see if you can unscrew it. My plan is that with the hot water, the safety will start to work again. If the cap does not release the safety on cooling, then there is no other way but to destroy the cap and replace with a new one. Very important to mention that this job must be done by a qualified technician or some one who knows what he is doing. Working with hot water is very dangerous.
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
SOURCE: Steamer filler cap is sealed
You need a little more leverage--either a strap type tool or a pair of adjustable width pliers that span the width of the cap. Try running hot water over the cap first which may loosen it enough to remove by hand.
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
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