Question about Jacuzzi Water Heaters
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
As a precaution, you should check with the manufacturer for the required gas volume and pressure requirements needed to properly supply the unit, and that will help to determine the pipe size and configuration.
In mast cases you'll find that If you are installing the tankless unit at or very near the location of the existing W/H then there should be no reason to change the pipe diameter from the 1/2" feed that is already in use to the existing W/H.
My view is, the current configuration that supplies a 50 gal. W/H should deliver ample volume and pressure to the new tankless unit.
If the tankless unit is to be installed at a different location then the existing W/H then the general rule of thumb is,
3/4-inch black iron pipe can be run up to about 20 feet of length from the gas meter or regulator, and 1-inch black iron pipe can be run for distances up to 70 feet. If other gas appliances are also in the home (gas range, gas clothes dryer and furnace, for examples), larger diameter gas piping may be required to run all appliances at the same time. Keep in mind that in new construction this is easy to plan, but in a remodel, adding larger gas line piping can add to costs of time and materials. Additionally, elevations more than 4,000 feet above sea level may require adjustments for the unit to run properly.
Note: Check with your local plumbing code for your areas requirements.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
did you check the filters on the the water valves, i am not exactly sure about your codes that are shoeing but if you could read it and post them, i know on some of the units 76 means there is low water pressure and the filters are behind 2 caps one on each side above the shut off valve take off the caps and remove the screens, clean them and replace them ,, make sure you turn off the water on both side first or you will get wet
Posted on May 29, 2009
I just had the same problem and I fixed it in about an hour or 2.
First shut off the gas,water and power(unplug it)
Take off the cover
There are about 20 screws above the electrical circuit board.
You have to remove all of those screws to remove plate that is covering the burner assembly.
The burner assembly has these 3 pins that look like number 7's
these are covered with build up and gas can't flow right.
That's why you get the c211 error not enough gas.
Take a wire brush and gently remove any build up,
I also cleaned the thermocoupler which is next to the burners.
It looks like a metal pin with a couple of wires coming out of it this was also very dirty.
I took a can of air and basically freshened it up
It works perfect now.
Email me with any Q's at Mario@myredr.com
All that you need is a long phillips screw drive and a drill because its about 25 screws
The burner assembly has 2 screws all the in back underneath the assembly once you remove those 2 the assembly comes out . You don't have to disconnect any wires.
Posted on Oct 29, 2009
If you look on the left hand side of the burner control module you'll see 4 capacitors - the capacitors have most likely failed...pretty sure anything code 76 is P/S failure. It may also be covered for manufactures defects. If the cap is blown..the top will be slightly raised as apposed to flat like the other nearby caps - they are called top blow capacitors...the damage should be evident.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
The 250 MUST have the condensate line connected. EC comes from gas supply problems and CO2 levels not being adjusted. LP units require 3/4" smooth gas pipe or 1" corrugated pipe minimum size. The LP regulator needs to be turned up to about 13 inches of water column and with all the gas appliances on, measure no less than 11 inches of water column. The CO2 levels must be measured by a qualified gas technician with a calibrated (with in 6 months) CO2 analyzer.
Posted on Apr 11, 2010
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