SOURCE: 6.3a slow-blow 125v fuse
It will work, the amp rating is most important, 125v / 250v does
not matter.......note: if you blow the fuse again, the TV will
need service.................T.
SOURCE: AR1 Subwoofer Keeps Blowing the 5 Amp Fuse
Well, so far so good. I reinstalled the newly repaired amp and fired it up and so far, so good. Ran it through about an hour of fairly intense break-in tracks and then ran it through about 2 dozen power up and down cycles to try to get it to fail (better now than a month from now and have to fight them on backing it up).
SOURCE: PC power supply fuse - T6.3h 250v engraved on end
T = time delay (slow blow)
6.3A = 6.3 Amperes maximum load
H = HRC - high rupture current (as you specified a ceramic fuse)
250V = 250V AC rated
other letters you may see
FF = ultra fast blow
F = fast blow
M = medium blow
TT = very slow blow
L = low blow current
H = high blow current (glass package)
S = sand filled
SOURCE: Klipsch ksw subwoofer wont power on
The problem is Klipsch's problem, and they don't seem to want to face it. My 10" subwoofer blows the fuse before the power light can even come on. It's obvious that the fuse is not strong enough, but there is a delicate area between the fuse and the power supply. Too many amps on a fuse may keep it from blowing, but it may cook the power supply. Kipsch needs to fix this, tell us how to fix it, or replace it...at their expense. This should NOT be happening. Otherwise a great speaker....when it works.
SOURCE: subwoofer eating fuses.
Check the circiut board for any blown capacitors. Sometimes it's that simple as replacing a capacitor. But then again, what is causing the capacitor to blow??/ Hope this helps.
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