Well I need you to be more specific. What kind, model, and is it just a freezer only or fridge freezer?
First off remove food to inspect and save it if you feel it's safe.
Second, defrost (Evaporator coils) and clean drain tube inside the freezer box.
Since you did not state make and model just an overview of troubleshooting.
Now the dirty part get to the (Condensor coils) and clean them, Freezers/Refrigerators are notorious for getting all coated up with "Dust Bunnies" . It would be like you running on a 110deg day with a sweater on... could you do it ya but not for long. So get a brush and gently dust and vac out the coils. If they were coated and now defrosted and cleaned try running for a day check temps to assure freezing...
If you don't have a thermometer an "ice cube tray" or something about 1" square with water will work.
If you think it is defrosting and refreezing... Place a quarter on an "ice cube" (yes frozen) let it run for 1 day and see if the quarter stays on top or melts in and refreezes you'll know if the system is working Consistently. Also if you travel or going to be gone... do the quarter on an ice cube it will tell you if you had power loss and if it was long enough to spoil food... flashing microwave only tells if you took some sort of dip or loss of power not how long.
Hope I helped "like" if I did.
Mike
SOURCE: My refigerator and freezer are not cooling enough
Is the fan in the freezer running?? Is there frost on back panel of freezer??
SOURCE: Alarm Flashing Red & Bleeping
Did the RCD tripping have anything to do with the freezer? You could have a faulty defrost heater, which means the freezer will not defrost at all.
Here's what I did, I defrosted! I found out that the fridge temp is monitored and maintained by the freezer. Because we had a power outage one night, my freezer thawed while we all slept and then when power came back on, freezer re-froze but this cause an ice build up on the vent on the back wall of the freezer. Well, ice must have been in one (or more) vents, causing blocked air flow in my top half of the refrigerator. I turned the dial in the freezer to "off" which also shuts down power to the fridge half. I then unplugged the refrigerator, hauled all my food items into coolers, opened the freezer door and refrigerator doors and left them open for a little over six hours. I took advantage of this empty fridge and freezer and wiped everything down. After this time frame passed, I plugged the fridge back in, turned the freezer dial to my preferred freezer temp, and wah-lah! Within two hours I had a cold fridge and solid ice cubes in the freezer. I then put all my food items back into their appropriate compartments, and went to work. Bear in mind, a total 24-hour period is needed for the fridge to re-set itself, but still, after two hours the fridge was noticeably cold. Who knew, besides our parents' generation: DEFROST!
SOURCE: Amana XRSS287BB side by side fridge freezer (3 years old)
you may try hard restart by shuting the fridge off and unplugging it from the wall . plug in back in and after 5 min turn it back on . close both doors and wait one hour . check the temp. if the unit still will not respond calll the local woranty amana repairman only. hope this helps you
Some newer refrigerators have been
using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control. does the same job as the
defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power
to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the
compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This
adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if
the defrost heater and defrost thermostat pass the ohm test, we replace the adaptive
defrost board.
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