I am looking for a class 2 power supply CZJUTAI model JT-DC-300V0280-D Used in lighted palm tree for outdoor lighting

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There are universal power supply units available that come with a variety of interchangeable ends and switchable polarity, current and voltages. However, if one of these will fit your particular needs I have no idea or indeed if they are available in your country. Try eBay or Amazon. I hope that is of some help.

there can a few reasons for this happening

(1) something is moving within its range , this can be a bush or tree branch
(2) range /sensativity set too high use proper adjustments

(3) some models have a constant on mode that happens when you cycle power too light, turn pwr off and leave off for 15 min then turn back on
(4) lighting , the flashes of intense light drive these things crazy , if a strike comes close , sensor will become perm blinded and stay on
(5) light is defective

That symptoms have problem in back lights supply.The back lights have drive board that energies the back lights, the drive board have 24v dc from the power supply.So if the 24V dc output of the power supply have faulty because of leak capacitor,the back light drive board is did not oscilate to energies the back light.So the problem is either in power supply the 24v dc output,the drive board or the connector of the back lights in the drive board is loosen.

I have the same problem, DO NOT modify a direct wall plug with a generally same shape power connector, I did and a burst of sparks popped out of the fixture almost setting me on fire..lol

Hello Eileen, W/D here.
Palms will reabsorb some of their nutrients when fronds are shed, even over winter. If possible, you should let the ugly fronds go, and allow the trunk to take back what's stored in the frond stems. When they become brown, or less green, or droop, they can be pruned. This is usually found with the lower fronds. If upper fronds exhibit these symptoms, it is usually from the effects of winter, but the same rules apply, except that you can trim partial fronds to get rid of the brown leaves.
The acid test for a palm is, if there are shoots in the middle of the canopy protruding, to pull on them firmly, but not aggressively. If the shoots pull out easily, the palm is probably dead. Some winters are more brutal than others, and palms take the worst of them. We double-cover our palms, and place lights inside of the covering that we make, and the larger ones have made it over winter now for about 5 years. I have used incandescent Christmas lights wrapped around the trunk and hung in the canopies, then covered and it worked well too. One friend slaved his Christmas lights to his pool pump control panel, only to lose his palms. Seems that he was using LED lights, which put out no heat. Queen palms have died in droves this, and last year, as have unprotected Robellinis. Washingtonians and Pindos have fared better. If you live in a coastal zone, you still need to cover and keep your palms warm through the worst of winter. We have used fitted sheets on the smaller canopies to contain the fronds, then covered that with plastic tarps, weighted down on the sides to form a mini greenhouse, and it works pretty well, but it's inconvenient. With spring here, there will be a lot of new outdoor umbrellas purchased, and the old ones will be pitched. We already have picked one up from a neighbor, and will erect it over one of the palms, then cover it as described. The thinking here that it should be much easier (and quicker) to protect the palms via this method.
As for the fungus noted, try light applications of a fungicide, but check first with a local nurseryman to see what works best in your area.
Hope that this is of some help.
Best regards, (and please rate this solution), --W/D--

LED lights are on? Fans spin? I suggest you have a bad Power Supply.

1) eMachines are noted to have low quality Power Supply's.
Saves eMachines money so they can sell budget computers.

2) A bad Power Supply is one of the leading causes of computer failure. I have, (Had actually), a shop half full of computers with this 'ailment'.

Some caused by the owners never cleaned out the inside of their computer, nor the inside of the Power Supply, with a can of compressed air for computers on a regular basis as needed.

3 to 5 years without cleaning the inside of their computer.
Mice could have made nests inside easily, with the 'Gunk' that was there. A bald eagle could have too. Rant off.

Others, caused by the computer manufacturer used a low quality Power Supply.
Low quality components used inside.
One of the major components that fails, is caused by a particular Electrolytic Capacitor that is used.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

3) Power Supply's used in PC's are a type of SMPS.
(Personal Computer. Statement holds true no matter what type of personal computer it is)

[ SMPS = Switched-Mode Power Supply
PSU = Power Supply Unit
All terms relate to a Power Supply used in a PC ]

A bad Power Supply will have a weak voltage power rail.
There are three major power rails used in the ATX form factor Power Supply, for an eMachines T6420 desktop computer.

A) The 3.3 Volt power rail (DC)
B) The 5 Volt power rail (DC)
C) The 12 Volt power rail (DC)

(Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC)

A Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, may have enough power to light LED lights, and spin fans, (or spin a few times, ans stop), but won't have enough power to turn the Processor on.

1) ALL the LED lights combined use less than 1 Watt of power

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts.
Depends on what Processor it is.

eMachines T6420?
Uses an AMD Athlon 64 3400+, processor.
(Socket 939)

[The motherboard used is an MSI ms-7207
Also known as K8NGM2-L ]

http://www.emachines.com/support/product_support.html?cat=Desktops&subcat=T%20Series&model=T6420

This Processor can use Up To 89 Watts.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_amd_athlon_64_processors#.22Newcastle.22_.28CG.2C_130_nm.29

No Processor running, No computer.
No computer = No Video Signal

Suggest using a KNOWN to be Good, Compatible power supply, for a test unit, if available.

Should be the ATX form factor.

Approximately 6 inches Long, (15.24cm), 6 inches Wide, (15.24cm), and 3-1/2 inches Tall. (8.89cm)

250 Watts.
Correct amount of power cables, and the correct type.

The device power-up lights acts normally with 5...9 V DC.

When the TV does this, the RED LED on the front will blink. For digits 1-10 it will blink pause then repeat. For numbers with 2 digits it will blink the first digit slow and then second digit fast. So 25 would be 2 slow blinks followed by 5 fast blinks.

Error Description Error/Prot Detected by Device Defective module Result
1 I2C1
2 I2C2
3 I2C3
4 I2C4
5 VIPER
6 5V supply
7 8V6 supply
8 1.2V DC/DC
11 3.3V DC/DC
12 12V supply
14 Supply Class D amplifiers
14 Supply Audio part SSB
17 MPIF1 audio supply
18 MPIF1 ref freq
25 Supply fault
27 Phoenix
28 MOP
29 AVIP1
31 AVIP2
32 MPIF1
34 Tuner1
37 Channel decoder
39 POD Interface
43 Hi Rate Front End
44 Main NVM
45 Columbus
53 VIPER
63 PDP Display

If it is blinking red 7 times, and then repeating that would be error code 7 (8V6 supply). Power supply

Error Description Error/Prot Detected by Device Defective module Result
1 I2C1
2 I2C2
3 I2C3
4 I2C4
5 VIPER
6 5V supply
7 8V6 supply
8 1.2V DC/DC
11 3.3V DC/DC
12 12V supply
14 Supply Class D amplifiers
14 Supply Audio part SSB
17 MPIF1 audio supply
18 MPIF1 ref freq
25 Supply fault
27 Phoenix
28 MOP
29 AVIP1
31 AVIP2
32 MPIF1
34 Tuner1
37 Channel decoder
39 POD Interface
43 Hi Rate Front End
44 Main NVM
45 Columbus
53 VIPER
63 PDP Display