My Samsung RF28K9380SG panel light control lock is stuck on. Water and ice dispenser not working.

SOURCE: ice and water dispenser not working but light on constantly

CM, there are 2 things that'd cause this. One is inexpensive, the other is not. First, check the cheap one... That rectangular rubber piece in back of your dispenser area is only a cover for a cantilever device. When you push in on this with a cup, the cantilever swivels back toward you and makes contact with a micro-switch. This switch sends power to the integrated circuit board which, in turn, performs the function you requested (cubed, crushed, water). OK... unplug your fridge. Then use your ears to diagnose this. Push the actuator pad several times in and out and listen for the tell-tale "click click" of the micro-switch. If you hear it clicking, it's good. Plug your fridge back in. Now for the expensive part. If your micro-switch clicks, your dispenser control board is fried and needs to be replaced. (I'm afraid that this is the case because the board controls the light as well as all the other functions.) UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE REPAIRING! To gain access the board, use a small flat blade screwdriver and remove the fascia panel starting at the bottom first. Just begin prying it gently off. Then remove the screws that are holding the board assy in place and gently pull it out. Take note of all of the wiring so you can re-install it correctly. The board number you need is #61005274. Unfortunately, it lists for about $100. A professional repairman would charge you over $200 for the repair, so you're actually saving money here! BTW, we recommend using a Belkin Surge protector for all appliances that utilize electronic controls. (you wouldn't plug you computer directly into a wall outlet, would you?) We regularly use these... http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(a1q3xi45sxgfbzm0qejhei55)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=3115672

SOURCE: Ice & water control buttons

sound like a bad(shorted) dispenser user interface INTERFACE DISP ASM WR55X10415

SOURCE: control panel on my fridge

Pull the power cord for 5 minute to reset the control board. if this control panel malfunction still exist after the reset, replace the control circuit board.

This is a typical control fault that should be corrected by pulling power for 5 minutes. if not, this reset will confirm major damaged to the circuit board.

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite refrigerator ice and water dispensers not working

check for a child lockout button it will look like a tiny padlock ,press and hold for 3 sec.(could be the freezer door light switch)

SOURCE: water/ice dispenser sticking on

We had a problem with the water/ice dispenser on our 5-year-old LG SxS Refrigerator (LRSC 26930TT). In a panic to stop the water flow, the rubber activator boot was pulled off. The dispenser stopped once the button attached to the back of the boot was removed. Nothing was physically broken (i.e., parts intact) but the challenge was to get things (especially the boot) back in place. The key for me was to use patience: researched Internet for pointers (not too helpful), looked for schematics (even less fruitful) and exhaustively examined the panel on refrigerator (to help reverse engineer). Okay, here’s how I disassembled and reassembled without breaking any tabs or other pieces. Assuming your unit is similar, the panel is on the freezer door on the left side. You can lock the dispenser (using panel button) to preclude undesired water/ice while working. Note: the outer bezel (edge of panel) is secured by screws and should not be messed with. The main panel has tabs on all four sides. I used three screwdrivers (small to average in size) to pry the panel off. Pry the main panel working through the seam between the bezel and panel. Work your way around starting from the lower left or upper left corner. Each side of the panel has 3 or 4 tabs. Methodically work your way around using moderate force to pop the tabs loose. Once the panel is loose, you’ll need to disconnect the electrical connector at the upper left. The plug comes off and reattaches easily…don’t pull on the wires, use the plastic connector itself. Wiggle the panel free. Now you can get to the back of the boot retention bezel…the ultimate goal. Carefully push the bezel’s securing tabs (x3) through the panel and reattach the rubber boot. I used needle nose pliers to carefully pull each rubber nib through their applicable hole on the bezel. Now leave the boot/bezel assembly to the side—it’s the last step to reassembly. Note how the main panel tabs fit into their receiving slots/flanges. Reattach the electrical connector, snaps right on, and maneuver center of panel into recessed area, around ice chute/water nozzle. Slide the right and bottom sides on first—flanges, not slots for tabs—then align remainder of panel. Using moderate force, pop (punch) the remaining tabs back into their respective slots. The main panel will seat over the bezel. Now align and snap boot/bezel back into place. Finis! (No guarantees, but this procedure worked like a charm for me.)