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Have a Power craft 40-38cc chainsaw. Runs fast on closed choke. Could the mix be too rich Found it has run fast from beginning. Spark plug clean and fires up on 1st or 2nd pull. Any suggestion
The best thing you can do to these engines it take them completely apart - take piston out and everything. Believe it or not, my 12-year-old son was able to do it - very few parts in these little 2-stroke engines. He polished the carbon off of the piston with a drummel tool and cleaned everything with carb-cleaner. Put it back together and it ran like a champ. Still does. It was a great learning experience for him too. The worst that can happen is you have a bunch of parts that you will throw away.
Replace the spark plug caps and try again. On Honda's the cap is often part of the wire (a dealer part) NGK makes some inexpensive plug caps about $5 each. They should OHM out to 5000 anything above or below and you need to replace them. This should fix the problem.
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First make sure your choke circuit is working. May be an indication that your carb needs to be cleaned. I wouldn't replace it yet= clean it. If the choke circuits and the carb check out fine. An unresponsive motor/ carb usually means bad valves or valve timing. Example: it runs rich, spits fuel out the carb no matter how lean you set it. Even with the idle air closed it runs rich... intake valve is not closing or closing late. In that case it needs valves serviced.
Usually when a small engine starts fine.. runs fine.. gets hot it's ignition related.
First you want to make sure the cooling fins are clean.. remove any covers and clean the area around the head. If those fins are clogged.. not good.
Second I would check the spark.. and the spark plug condtion.
Also for power tools that don't get used that often.. fuel sytems get gummed up.. fuel gets old.. and folks tend to use the fuel in the can they mixed two seasons ago. Make sure the fuel mix is correct.
I assume it is running fine with the choke off.. however check the choke for proper operation.
Clean or replace the air filter as well.. once all the ignition and fuel components are in good order.. only then should you begin to adjust the carb. Probably not needed.. but don't do it until you are satisfied that you have good air fuel mix and proper spark. Best of luck
my 455 did this also I went and bought a new gas filter new gas and mix. try this you might have some water in your gas,also add some sea foam additive to your gas mixture just about a table spoon to 2.5 gallons of gas
Test the ignition system. Inspect the plug; is it wet (99.5 % of 2-cycle start problems are flooded)? If you have not already install a new plug. Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.
If the plug was not wet and you have spark; remove, clean, and reinstall the muffler and spark arrestor. I will give you that you already cleaned the air filter, remove it turn off the choke, put a teaspoon of fuel into the carburetor throat, and reinstall the air filter.
Use this start procedure - Read Cold 3, read it again. At the first hint it fired OPEN the choke. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
I am going to close this. I am still here and more than willing to help or answer questions. just continue as you have already. I think there is still old fuel in lines and and dark corners of the carb. it will clear once we get it to run for a few minutes. Remember I cannot see what you are doing or have done, brevity helps neither of us. Post back with the results from above, hopefully she runs. Good Luck Lou
Before doing anything, remove, clean, and reinstall the air filter.
Remove, clean, and reinstall the muffler and spark arrestor.
Drain and refill the fuel tank with fresh 50:1 fuel mix. If there is ANY doubt the mix might be older than 1.5 months; replace it with a fresh mix.
It needs: 1.spark 2.air/fuel mix 3.compression
to run. Which 1 is missing?
Repair/test for above:
1. Replace the plug (very inexpensive and may save the cost of a coil). Test for spark (inspect the plug when you remove it – wet? The engine is flooded, the most common starting problem) Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.
2. Spark good, plug not wet: (if it does not start or reason is found upon completion of 2 reply below with ALL results and we will continue. Brevity is not correct with internet help. I cannot easily ask questions or see what you have or are doing.)
Remove the air filter, open the choke, add a teaspoon of fuel directly into the carburetor throat and reinstall the air cleaner.
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (Pull at least 6 times NO CHOKE).
Did it try to start? This is indicative of a fuel delivery problem. Check the fuel filter on the free end of a hose in fuel tank (manufacturer recommends an annual replacement). Check all fuel delivery lines especially at fittings and bends for cracks and holes. It can also be an air leak, inspect for a loose or defective carburetor manifold or loose carburetor. If those are good then the likely cause is internal parts of the carburetor are dirty or have failed. A good local saw shop can do diagnostic pressure tests that often save time.
Because this is MOST common cause of hard starting: (read your OM closely it is very similar) Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
3.Good spark, good fuel, not flooded.
I am not going to discuss cylinder inspection until you reply the above was not successful.
This is a fine saw. It uses the same frame as the 262, one of Husky's best. The operator's manual is complete and detailed. I wish current models were as good. Please reply with any result, I hope to hear from you.
Your manuals OM and IPL can be found here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
HTH
Lou
It must have spark, fuel and compression to run. Your task is to figure out which is missing.
Sometimes electrical components quit operating once beyond a certain temperature. Does it always start cold and become tempermental when warm?
IMO most hard start problems on a chainsaw with a good fuel delivery system are flooded. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
The 3516 is a MTD McCulloch (Chinese). These saws are in a class by themselves. Good Luck Lou
Is the fuel full of something? Dispose of it and try this. Fuel/Oil Mixture
Use a quality 2 cycle oil and mix it to the OIL supplier's recommended ratio. Today I use Stihl 2 cycle oil mixed @ 50:1 in a Pioneer that I purchased new in 1980. There are no gouges or scratches on the piston or cylinder and I have no carbon build up on the piston top. The manual (on stone tablets) recommends 24:1. Over the years the mixture has leaned from 24:1 (Saw Recommendation) to 28:1 (Lawn boy mower recommendation) to 32:1 (Oil provider 8oz/2gal - used for many years) and finally the last 5 (±) years 50:1 (Stihl 2.6oz/1gal)
Any fuel containing ethanol is not good with chainsaws. Mix what you expect to use within a few months. Anything over 3 months old use up in a 4 cycle engine.
Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
HTH Lou If no joy repost with what you have done and we'll try something different. Once flooded chainsaws are very hard to start.
Check for spark Ignition Coil Test Smalleng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You don’t have to bend up the electrode.
If spark present put a small amount of mix in the carburetor. Does it at least try to start? If yes you most likely have a fuel delivery problem. If no any number of problems. Try your friendly neighborhood chainsaw shop.
Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Engine needs spark and fuel to run. Does the spark plug fire when pulled through (remove the plug from the engine and clean around the plug base before taking the plug out)? Does it have fresh oil/fuel mixture? Try squirting a little fuel mix directly into the cylinder spark plug hole, and return the plug (if it was sparking). It should pop a couple of times--might even keep running! If it won't fire again (with the choke closed), then the carburetor probably needs attention. Has the saw been in storage for some time with old fuel left in the tank? If so, wash out the fuel tank with new fuel and pull the starter a number of times with new fuel in the tank. This engine runs fine with 40:1 or 50:1 (with right 2-stroke oil) fuel/oil mix.
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