When my chainsaw gets hot i can not start it

SOURCE: craftsman table saw

Alright, I have fixed mine, so maybe the same thing will work for two as well. I actually have a slightly different model (113.298341) but I imagine the electronics follow the same basic layout. FYI, I got a manual online through Sears for free.

Mine has a manual reset thermal overload protector to keep from burning up the more expensive stuff. It is the red "reset" button near the main switch that ought to pop out if it gets too hot, and can only be pushed back in when the machine is back down to a safe operating temp. I overloaded my machine, and the protector broke the circuit, BUT the button did not pop out and I therefore couldn't just push it back in. I took out the protector, and although it looked like the circuit should be closed, there was no conductance through the protector. I took off the tiny bolt on the back of the protector, essentially jostled the thing a little, replaced the bolt, and conductance is now restored. I re-installed the protector, replaced the front cover, and now she works like a charm.

So maybe these reset switches often don't act like they are supposed to? I'd recommend just checking everything in the line, beginning with the main power line in. it will contain three wires: the ground will be bolted to the frame, the others will run to the main switch and the relay, respectively. With the machine plugged in, touch your volt meter probes to the contacts on the way INTO the switch and relay, and you should have 120V. Then, check the switch by turning it to the ON position with the machine plugged in, leaving one probe on the IN contact of the relay, and moving the other to the OUT contact of the switch. Again, you'll get 120V if the switch is working correctly. Alternatively, you could just check conductance through the switch directly w/o involving the relay contact, either way is fine.

Next in line is the thermal switch, which was my issue. Unplug the machine and/or turn off the main switch (I do both, no point taking risks). You'll need to unscrew the switch, which is a black plastic cylinder about an inch in diameter with the red reset button on it, and check for conductance by probing the wires leading into and out of the back of the black plastic cylinder. If you don't get conductance, you're in the same boat as me, and try to fiddle with the bolt and restore conductance. Otherwise, it might be the relay or the capacitor on down the line. If not those, your motor might be shot, but we'll hope thats not the ca$e.

Hope this helps guys, I was really surprised that it turned out to be such an easy fix, you just need a screwdriver, a 3/16 wrench (for the bolt on the switch), and a voltmeter that tests up to 120V and can test for conductance. One thing to be very careful of is the large capacitor in the control box. I just stayed away from it, but I would seek further advice on how to test it if you need to. After taking apart a couple of cameras as a kid, I know not to mess around with those things. Otherwise, just use the same good sense you should bring to any fix involving 120V of electricity and a 10 inch steel blade.

SOURCE: Poulan Wood Shark Chainsaw - wood smoking. Is chain on backwards?

I cannot tell you about a picture, but for one: chain direction, the bottom of the bar is where the cutting takes place, and therefore, looking at the chain, you will see, on the bottom, the antikick back link is sort of curved, and then the next part is the straight tooth. The highest part of this straight tooth is the sharp edge, and this high part should face towards the motor. The chain, on the bottom side of the bar, is pulled in towards the motor by the clutch/gear. That is your direction of travel.

As to cleaning the air filter, Hopefully you have access to compressed air, as in simply blowing off the dirt. You do not want to use liquid cleaner. Simply blow off any dirt, after pulling the filter away from the carburetor, of course. Then place it back in place.

It may be that your chain is real dull. The top edge of the high part of the flat tooth needs to be sharp. And the outside corner needs to come to a nice point. Remember, there is two cutting surfaces on each tooth, the top is cutting down into the wood, and also that outside sharp corner is openning the cut for the bar to pass through. Proper sharpening, if new to it, can be hard to grasp. Any chainsaw manual should show how to do a good job.

SOURCE: my 345 chainsaw bogs down when it hits wood

There are two idle screws one high, and one low. Your high adjustment idle screw needs to be adjusted.

SOURCE: Husqvarna ranger 55 chainsaw starts but quits

I too have a rancher 55 and had what sounds like the same problem this week. It would start fine but run for only a few seconds at a time. I took it all apart today and found the problem - a cracked fuel line. In the places where I could see the hose it looked fine, but it wasn't until I removed the fuel tank that I found the crack...right where it exits the tank and then goes thru the housing above it. You don't need to remove the tank to replace the hose but it is easier that way. You do have to push it thru a grommet at the top of the tank. I read some other posts about checking the tank vent to see that it's not plugged up. Mine was ok so I knew it had to be something else. The vent is in a hole about the size of a pencil and is recessed about an inch into the tank on the upper right side. Its partially covered by a plastic cap that's part of the vibration damper, which can be removed to gain access to the vent. The vent tube can then be pushed out from inside the tank with the use of long needle nose pliers, but be gentle. I just loosened it then pushed it out with a finger. I put it all back together with a new hose and its running like new again!

SOURCE: while cutting the chainsaw bogs down and stops

Check the air filter and the muffler if either are plugged up it will not run smooth. Carb hi and low screws are very sensitive so if you change them, only move them a little at a time.