What can i use to clean electrical wires on a vehicle?

To test the ignition module on a 1995 GMC Sierra 5.7, you can follow these steps:
1. Safety Precautions: Ensure the vehicle is in park or neutral with the parking brake engaged. Also, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to prevent any accidental electrical shock.
2. Locate the Ignition Module: The ignition module is typically mounted on the distributor or in close proximity to it. It is a small, rectangular component with electrical connectors and heat sinks.
3. Inspect the Wiring and Connections: Examine the wiring harness and connectors leading to the ignition module. Look for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Ensure all connections are secure and in good condition.
4. Test the Ignition Coil: The ignition module works in conjunction with the ignition coil. You can test the coil by connecting a spark tester to one of the spark plug wires and grounding the tester. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe if a spark is present. If there is no spark, it may indicate a faulty ignition coil or module.
5. Use a Multimeter: If the ignition coil tests fine, you can use a digital multimeter to test the ignition module. Set the multimeter to the resistance (ohms) setting. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition module and measure the resistance between the appropriate terminals, as specified in the vehicle's service manual. Compare the readings to the manufacturer's specifications. If the resistance values are significantly different from the specified range, the ignition module may be faulty.
6. Consult a Service Manual: It's essential to refer to a detailed service manual specific to your GMC Sierra 5.7 for accurate testing procedures and specifications. The manual will provide step-by-step instructions and values for testing the ignition module.
If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with performing these tests yourself, it is recommended to seek assistance from a qualified automotive technician or a GMC dealership. They will have the expertise and specialized equipment to diagnose and repair the ignition system accurately.

This might help

900 primary and 9,000 secondary are acceptable .

no
spark will occur is the coil gets the pulse to work
if it has points , check from power across the points
check condenser for shorting out
ignition timing only determines when the plugs get the spark in relation to the piston position

I have no wiring info for your model year. With key on both positive and negative at the coil, are hot, correct?
Do you have tfi module on this vehicle?

Don't know if this will help you or not. But we found out with our 97 Silverado, that almost everything electrical went through the ignition switch. You might investigate an ignition problem.

1979 ford 400 Drove inot shop did a cam shaft change and put all back together and no spark! put new coil , distributor, eletronic brian , wires ,rotor, cap, and check wire harness for brroken wires . still no spark? ANY IDEAS??

Check the ECM fuse and then check for any loose wire connectors, especially at the fire-wall area, the ignition coil, and the distributor. Then check for battery voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil when the ignition key is in the "On" or "Run" position, and there should also be battery voltage running over from a wire that is also connected to the positive side of the ignition coil, and then that wire will run over from the ignition coil to the ignition module inside of the distributor, and if there is battery voltage there at the ignition module, then either the ignition module or the pick-up coil inside of the distributor will be the most likely suspects for the cause of the problem.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is actually what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like it could also be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one or all of these systems to malfunction.

There is also the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor and ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition coil to the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

If the vehicle does have EEC-IV (Electronic Engine Control-4) then the ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor and it is most likely faulty, and when the ignition module gets too hot the engine will stop running. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty.

If the vehicle is not EEC-IV equipped (see emission label under the hood) then the ignition module will be mounted away from the distributor and usually located out on the driver side fender well area and can have two or three wire connectors, and it can be removed and tested for free at most auto part stores.

Also, there is the possibility that there might be a faulty ignition coil and it should be checked using an ohm meter (let me know if you require assistance with the proceedure), or a fault with the fuel pump and a fuel pressure gauge would be the best way to determine if the fuel pump is faulty, and the ECU (Engine Control Unit) might be faulty. However, the symptoms that you describe seem to be more that of the ignition module. A Ford ignition module wrench should be used to remove and install the ignition module on the distributor, and most auto part stores will have one for under five dollars.

Most auto part stores will test the ignition module for free if you remove it from the distributor and take it to them.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with die-electric grease and be sure that the metal contact surface of the ignition module is completely coated with the die-electric grease because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

If you are installing the old ignition module onto the distributor be sure not to forget to coat the metal contact surface with die-electric grease/compound or the ignition module will over-heat.

For test:

1. Follow the coil wire from the center terminal on the distributor cap to the end at the ignition coil. Make sure that the transmission is in Park (AT) or Neutral (MT) and that the ignition is turned OFF .
2. Separate the wiring harness connector from the ignition module at the distributor. Inspect for dirt, corrosion and/or damage. Reconnect the harness if no problems are found.
3. Attach a 12 volt DC test light between the coil TACH terminal and an engine ground, then crank the engine. If the light flashes or is continuous:
   1. Turn the ignition switch OFF .
   2. Detach the ignition coil connector on top of the coil and inspect for dirt, corrosion and/or damage.
   3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the ignition coil primary resistance from the BATT to the TACH terminals.
   4. The ohmmeter reading should be 0.8-1.6 ohms. If the reading is less than 0.8 ohms or greater than 1.6 ohms, the ignition coil should be replaced.
   5. Using an ohmmeter, measure the ignition coil secondary resistance from the BATT terminal to the high voltage terminal.
   6. The resistance should be 7,700-10,500 ohms. If the resistance is less that 7,700 ohms or greater than 10,500 ohms, replace the ignition coil.

For Removal:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the coil electrical connector(s).
3. Unfasten the retainers, then remove the ignition coil from the vehicle.
4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Hope helped with this.