SOURCE: Door falls open
I have had this issue TWICE now on a three year old dishwasher, and Sears charges you $150.+ to fix it. It is quite simple to fix, there is a special part that has all the pieces attached to it, except for the spring. You will have to remove the screws that are holding your dishwasher under the counter. This could be behind the rubber on the sides. I had to remove a gray plastic circle piece on the inside to see the screw (it pops right out, don't loose it!). Pull out the machine enough to see the out side- side. You will see a (plastic) white roller, string(rope), and a piece that attaches to the dishwasher. There is a number on the white plastic piece that looks like a L (it just slides out). Thess pieces are called the Dishwasher Door Balance Link. You will need to order these pieces, they are all inclusive, and come for both sides of the door, at a whopping price of $15.00. VERY simple to install. Attach one end to the spring, line up in roller then attach to the dishwasher. It is easier to look at it and follow what is on the dishwasher than me clearly explaining it. I feel that paying $1000.00 dollars for a dishwasher would warrant using metal pieces instead of substandard plastic, for this application. These door are very Heavy and like I have said I have replaced them twice with a waiting time of three weeks for the repair man. Please try it, you can do it.
SOURCE: KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDSO2FRSS
I recently had the same problem. One of the cords that attaches the door to a spring had snapped. I purchased cord replacments at the following URL and completed the repair myself. http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1059756&PPStack=1
Good Luck, Tim K.
SOURCE: door tension gone
Rico,
Mybad... Before I knew the model number I assumed door springs. Now that I know what we're working on (a KitchenAide), I know that it's NOT the springs but the linkage! Cool!
The repair is a little intense, OK? Not so much that you can't handle it, but enough so that it's kind of a pain. You'll first need to pick up (or order) the parts. The part number is 8194001 and lists for about $20 USD. (plug the part number into a search engine) When you have the parts, you're ready to tackle the beast.
Ready?
You'll need to KILL THE POWER TO THE DISHWASHER BEFORE DOING ANYTHING MORE! DO IT AT THE BREAKER IF YOU HAVE TO, OK?
OK. The DW is gonna have to slide out from the cabinet. I generally don't have to pull them out more than like a foot or so. Open the door and remove the 2 screws mounting it to the bottom of the counter top. Then you'll need to remove the "kick panels" near the floor (there are four 1/4" screws holding them in place).
Here's the tricky part... look closely at the water valve (it's mounted just behind the front left leg), what type of water line do you have going into the valve? Is it copper or is it flexible stainless steel braided hose? If it's the flexible stuff, you should be OK. If it's copper then you have to do the following;
Reach under the sink and shut off the hot water valve (the one on the left), then remove the copper line from the DW valve (this is tough to do, btw. Crowfoot wrenches are a life-saver here.) See? The flex hose will come out with the DW and the copper one won't... that's why you have to remove it.
OK... now you gotta start sliding the DW outta the hole. Do this slowly... by inches, don't just **** it outta there 'cause things can get snagged (drain hose, electrical, inlet hose, etc...) so take it easy and watch what you're doing.
After you have it out about a foot, use a flashlight and locate the springs (I BET you that one of the springs and rope are still good... look at that one and see where and how it attaches). Click this link to see a full sized diagram of your DW. Your part is number 24 and the spring is number 18. The spring connects all the way in the back by the rear leg support on the frame.
All ya gotta do now is install the new parts (do both even if one is still intact) and rebuild the unit! I know it sounds all complicated and stuff, but it's really not. It'll probably take you about an hour to get it completed.
There ya go! After you follow these instructions and your DW is happy again, would you please rate this solution as "FixYa"? My "Guru" status is counting on you. :-)
Also... if you have any further questions regarding this repair, don't hesitate to write back. I'll get your post in my email. OK?
SG
SOURCE: Have problem with door on Frigidaire Electolux
there is a spring that connects to the side of the door (both right and left) than connects to the holes on the bottom of the dishwasher frame. These springs have either fallen off or broken. To see the area where they connect you will need to remove the very bottom panels below the door. Look at the frame where the leg height adjustment screws are and you will see several holes in the frame the springs will most likely be right there and just need to be reconnected to the frame itself. If the springs are not there then the springs will more than likely be right at the bottom left and right side of the doors. These springs should be set in the 3rd hole back from the front if the door drop is still too fast set the spring further back on the frame.
Hope this helped
Dave
SOURCE: Dishwasher door
Hello Jodi, welcome to Fixya.
Based on your description what you`ve likey experienced is a broken door closer/link kit.
It is a fairly minor procedure to replace it/them. Slide the entire unit out from the cabinet a couple or three inches and you`ll see the plastic roller assembly and rope ( except yours is likey broke ) attached to the side.
**You`ll need to insure your connections will allow you to pull the unit out however, otherwise they - water, power, drain hose - must be disconnected to prevent any damage.**
If you have any reservation to performing this repair on your own please call in a qualified appliance technician.
The parts ( # 1059756 @ repairclinic ) come in a kit as I alluded to and will look like what I attached below...
These are available at most brick & mortar appliance part locations or on-line vendors such as "repairclinic.com" "searspartsdirect.com" or "apwagner.com" to name a few.
They range in price for around $20, or you can just purchase the rope/link seperately for about $4 part # 1159210 @ repairclinic.
I recommend replacing the entire kit, and check the spring itself...that is seperate from the kit ( # 830967 door spring @ repairclinic as well )
Hope that helps move you forward. Thank you for visiting "fixya" today.
Please take a moment and rate the solution provided here or a testimonial if you feel warranted.
Let me know if you require further assistance and good luck.
macmarkus :)
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