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Karla Thomas-Rodney Posted on May 22, 2018
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For the past five months my car have been rattling and loosing power. I have service the injectors and throttle body replace an EGR valve, replace the muffler and still the problem persist.

1 Answer

john h

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 29,494 Answers
  • Posted on May 22, 2018
john h
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Rattling like a vaslve rattle--if so need to pull valve covers and check the rockers,push rods ,basically the valve train

5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 22, 2008

SOURCE: 1996 Crown Vic, Valve noise under heavy acceleration

No use what's in there, but have the engine de-carboned by a Ford dealer, or remove the octane adjust shorting bar located near the ignition module (retards timing 2 degrees), this will in most cases cure the issue unless there is allot of carbon in the cylinders. There are also methods of ing this de-carbon procedure at home, check on the internet for tips.

PLEASE RATE THIS SOLUTION

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motor1258

Mike Butler

  • 6674 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 27, 2009

SOURCE: Flat spot around 2000r/m

Try accelerating at different speeds, for example push pedal further down, or ease into it real slow & let it climb, and see if it still dies at 2000 rpm, just to see if pedal position makes any difference to see if maybe TP sensor has bad spot.

Molson02536

Harvey N Tawatao

  • 3854 Answers
  • Posted on May 11, 2009

SOURCE: Exhaust pipe rattles when car idles. Had muffler

Check the heat shield on the Catalytic Converter, after a few years they start to rust off and rattle. Crawl under the Pathfinder and bang along the Converter and muffler area and see where it's coming from.   Good chances are, it's from the heat shield since you already had everything changed from the Cat back.
Good luck and hope this helps.

Molson02536

Harvey N Tawatao

  • 3854 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 05, 2009

SOURCE: How do I replace an egr valve on my 2000 Nissan

When you pop open the hood, look at the side of the engine on your right (driver's side). Underneath all the air intake duct that connects to your air filter is the EGR valve. It may  have a grey plastic top with an electrical connector attached to it (this top is about an inch and a half to two inches in diameter), a middle section below this that is made from a silvery metal with two rubber hoses plugged into it, and below this a bottom section with a metal pipe maybe three quarters of an inch in diameter connected to it. The metal pipe curves around and goes back behind the engine. There are two bolts that the valve is mounted on. To remove the valve, first you have to get a bunch of hoses and stuff out of the way to expose it, then disconnect the hoses and electrical connector from the valve, then disconnect the metal pipe connected to the base, then remove the two nuts on the two bolts. There is a gasket between the EGR valve and the engine which you will have to replace. It cost less than two dollars, good luck and hope this helps. WHen installing just do everything on revers. If you not sure if you can recall how the hoses goes back, take picture with your cell phone as reference. 

Anonymous

  • 34 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 12, 2009

SOURCE: truck backfires looses power. surges erratic

intake or head leaks also could be timing

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Related Questions:

0helpful
2answers

What is the difficulty level when replacing the knocK sensor bank one in my 96 infinitI Q45 4.5 L V8

the service manual covers all that, buy it or rent it?
V8 Engine. 1996 Infinity Q45
scans said it bad, if not do not listen to dweebs saying it is bad blind,
not told why you want to go there at all.?
bank 1, KS-1
they are both mounted to the top of the bare engine block
they are Microphones, no loose bolts rattling up there
or loose cam chains.
the main intake manifold must be pulled. (takes skills)
facing engine bank 1 is right bank, cylinder 1 front there.
KS1 is on same bank.
left word below means drivers seat perspective
see below KS1 is on the right facing the engine
clear as day we see the intake manifold is gone.

q45-undefined-undefined-0.jpg FRONT Of car IS HERE X

it is big sandwich, remove the top things seen to get here.called gaining ACCESS to it.

KS- sensors can lie you (scannned)
chain on cam bad.
lifter collapsed
or worse, can happen, bent valves?
do you hear noise (bad) form the engine, even at idle parked.

NO MAN CAN GUESS YOUR SKILLS OR TOOLS
NOR WHY YOU LANDED HERE,
DWEEBS ON THE WWW INTERNET TOLD YOU?
but I did answer how. not tools ,just where it is and what must come off. the block.
do not break bolts (snap) removing them.
I use pen oil and heat and more tactics. ask
with 6mm bolts, there, it can be tedious. not wrecking those.

now the SM words told (pasted)

  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Disconnect the air intake duct from the dual duct housing.
  4. Unplug the electrical connectors from the throttle body, the step motor AAC valve and the exhaust gas temperature sensor.
  5. Disconnect and label the hoses from the valve cover, the throttle body, the step motor AAC valve, the EGR control valve and the air cut valve.
  6. If the spark plug wires are in the way, disconnect them and move them aside. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
  7. Remove the upper intake manifold collector-to-intake manifold bolts, and lift the assembly from the intake manifold. Discard the gasket.
  8. Remove the lower intake manifold collector-to-intake manifold bolts, in sequence, and lift the assembly from the intake manifold. Discard the gasket.
  9. If the fuel injector assembly is in the way, perform the following procedures:
    1. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors.
    2. Disconnect the fuel injector assembly from the fuel lines.

  1. Remove the fuel rail-to-cylinder head bolts.
  2. Remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.
Remove the intake manifold-to-engine bolts, in sequence, lift the intake manifold from the engine and discard the gasket.

see that arrow red, it is inTHERE
im told Olive OyL can get there , directly./(grin)
q45d-undefined-undefined-1.jpg

q45d-kqcff13xlbal3fgeecvko1ot-d-2.jpg
0helpful
2answers

Hi just changed the egr valve on my 2007 dodge caliber and it was fine at first but after a while I'm getting a rattle from the intake manifold even when the cars off it rattles for a few seconds.

if the replacement is second hand then check the flap of the egr to see if its loose on the shaft also gain access to the egr to see if a bolt or washer is maybe lodge inside.check the vacuum unit on the egr sometimes the washer or spring inside can cause a rattle.last idea i know on most vehicles it recommended to replace throttle body and egr together so inspect the shaft and plate of the throttle body
0helpful
1answer

1993 Camry - won't Rev past 2000 and loses power ...

A major vacuum leak could the problem. Anything restricting the intake flow, a dirty throttle body or stuck EGR may cause similar problems. Possibly a clogged catalytic converter or a muffler baffle that has come loose clogging the exhaust. Last on the list is improper valve timing, a stuck or burned valve or other major engine problem like a hole burned in a piston. A compression test may help pinpoint the problem.
0helpful
1answer

1995 chevy tahoe 4wd. 5.7 liter when cooled down, starting is normal . Right after, engine almost stalls but Idle air control kicks in and keeps it running. eventually it is idling but rouph. On...

If your vehicle has one, and I think it does, check your EGR system. If the egr valve is full of carbon, it can be partially open, creating a vacuum leak. If the egr valve solenoid is bad, it could be opening the valve at the wrong time, also creating a vacuum leak. Unplug the egr vacuum hose, plug the open end of the hose and start it and see what it does. A picture of the egr is below.
3_11_2017_5_29_14_am.jpg
0helpful
1answer

When should fuel inductor/throttle body service be done? When should PCV valve be replaced? When should EGR valve be replaced?

The EGR Valve--is replaced when it fails

The Throttle Body-does not need expensive services,
you can spray the throttle plate,but don't listen to the all
the pitches at the chain stores

The PCV-I never replace them

In nearly 50 years, I only clean them every 3 years
Look at one.pretty simple device
0helpful
1answer

Idles real high at stops and makes noises in the exhaust under car.

Check the throttle body make sure its not sticking. If its not sticking then the problem would be the EGR valve and sensor since they control the idle speed for the motor. Rattle sound under car might be a heat shield for the exhaust that came loose.
5helpful
4answers

I have a 98 Ford Ranger, 3.0L. I replaced the EGR

i would change your idle air controle its 60$ and a great start
3helpful
1answer

Does anyone have engine schematics for a 2003 pontiac 3.1 V6? Or know of a site where I can find engine schematics? I have to replace an EGR Valve but don't know where it is located.

If you don't know where the EGR Valve is located, it is safe to assume that you did not properly diagnose your EGR system...how do you know the valve needs replacing?

If you are trying to fix a trouble code P0401 " Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Insufficient Flow" (This is a very common code with 3.1L GM Engines)
An EGR Valve replacement will most likely make you about $125 poorer than you were before and will not fix the problem.

Your EGR port into the intake manifold is most likely clogged up and needs to be cleaned out.

You will need a Throttle Body Gasket, an EGR Gasket, a can of ThrottleBody and Intake Cleaner, and a little antifreeze. (You will lose just a little when you remove the throttle body.)

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Remove the EGR Valve and the Throttle Body. Use a screw driver or pick to chip out the carbon buildup in the EGR port going into the intake manifold. You will probably have to work it from the intake side as well as the EGR side to get as much of the black carbon out as possible. Be careful not to let this stuff go down into the intake plenum - you will burn some valves if it gets in there. Then use the Throttle Body and Intake cleaner to finish the cleanup. (It helps to take a rag and stuff it into the intake manifold just past the EGR port to catch the gunk so it doesn't go down into the plenum...just don't forget to remove the rag before putting the Throttle Body back on)

Put everything back together and top-off your antifreeze and clear your computer codes. That should fix it.
0helpful
1answer
0helpful
1answer

CAR LOOSING POWER. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON. ONLY CODE IS CYLINDER 2 MISFIRE. JUST HAD A COMPLETE TUNE UP. TRIED NEW MASS AIRFLOW. THINKING IT MUST BE THE ECU COMPUTER. THERE IS A MAJOR HESITATION IN...

I have a 1999 Protege 1.6L with 93,000 miles. And a
1996 1.5L with 170,000 miles.
When my light came on, I got the EGR code read out at Advance Auto ($0). I googled 'Mazda EGR' and found this is frequently due to carbon buildup in the throttle body. It seems the carbon restricts the flow from the EGR, which then calls for a more open valve, and the error code is "excessive flow". Go figure.

Very easy to disassemble throttle body (just check to see where the EGR line is attached to the intake air path, just prior to injector assembly). Sure enough, a clump of carbon around the EGR port in the throttle body. Cleaned it up with a paper clip, Q-tip, and carburetor cleaner. Total cost < $3.
Cleared to code. No light on now, car runs fine.
If your "EGR VALVE" is bad,
you can get one cheap at the url below, and they take Pay-Pal.
Then you can install it of have it installed.
http://www.autoparts123.com/?gclid=CJual4Dv65gCFQS7sgodxk592A

Sometimes...
A less expensive fix is to replace the engine Coolant/Antifreeze "Temp Senser"
This will cut fuel to the injectors if not working properly.
Also replace the engine coolant "Thermostat",
when changing "Temp Senser".
You can pick up both at Auto-Zone for about $35.00.
This fixed our 1996 model. The 1999 model was fixed by replacing the
EGR Valve.

Hope this helps.
"Catch me on the flip"
"Mo"

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