NEW SUPPLY ASSEMBLY IS LEAKING

The mode switch is vacuum controlled , do you know anything about vacuum controls , how to test vacuum circuits ? here is a factory diagnostic flow chart for what to test.
HVAC Air Delivery System Check
Step
Action
Yes
No
1
Start the engine.
Turn the blower motor fan ON and select an air outlet mode.
Does air flow out of the selected HVAC outlet ducts?
YES - Go to Step 3
NO - Go to Step 2
2
Did the customer concern mention that the air discharges out the correct ducts at first, but then changes during higher engine RPM?
YES - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 3
3
With the engine running, cycle the HVAC controls through all the modes.
Does the air come out of the selected outlet ducts?
YES - Go to Step 18
NO - Go to Step 4
4
With the engine running, take a vacuum reading at the manifold vacuum port that supplies vacuum to the HVAC vacuum control assembly.
Is there engine vacuum?
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 5
5
Repair the no vacuum condition.
Is the repair complete?
YES -- Go to Step 18
--
6
Take a vacuum reading at the vacuum supply line at the HVAC vacuum control assembly.
Is the vacuum reading the same as the engine vacuum?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 8
7
Disconnect the vacuum supply line from the HVAC vacuum control assembly.
With the vacuum gauge connected to the vacuum supply line, re-start the engine and turn the engine OFF.
Does the system lose vacuum after turning OFF the engine?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 11
8
Inspect for leaking or collapsed vacuum lines between the engine manifold vacuum port and the HVAC vacuum control assembly.
Are the vacuum lines leaking?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 10
9
Repair or replace the collapsed or leaking vacuum line.
Is the repair complete?
Go to Step 18
--
10
Replace the vacuum reservoir tank.
Is the repair complete?
Go to Step 18
--
11
Using an external vacuum source, apply vacuum to the appropriate vacuum line at the connector to the HVAC vacuum control assembly.
Does the actuator retract?
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 12
12
Inspect for leaking or collapsed vacuum lines between the actuator and the connector to the HVAC vacuum control assembly.
Are the vacuum lines leaking?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 13
13
Disconnect the vacuum line from the actuator.
Apply an external vacuum source to the actuator.
Did the actuator retract?
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 16
14
With the actuator disconnected, inspect the door for binding.
Does the door move freely?
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 15
15
Repair the appropriate binding door.
Is the repair complete?
Go to Step 18
--
16
Replace the appropriate vacuum actuator.
Is the repair complete?
Go to Step 18
--
17
Replace the HVAC vacuum control assembly.
Is the repair complete?
Go to Step 18
--
18
Cycle the HVAC controls through all modes to verify proper operation.
Did you correct the condition?
System OK
--

your exhaust is stoped up probably the catalyst converter

sounds like a rear wheel cylinder is leaking. make sure you don't run outta brake fluid.. until u have it repaired .. normaly it takes about an hour and a bit to fix at a shop if thats all that is wrong...your rear brake shoes may be contaminated so braking will be comprimised so replace rear shoes as needed. if it rear axle seal your looking at more labor and more $$$$

This sounds like a problem that needs to be taken up with Mitsubishi. What, exactly, would you like a car expert on a D.I.Y. site to do for you?

you need to replace the hose assembly

Hello goldwingtazz,

One of the most common reason for repeated hub assembly failures is the use of the wrong hub assembly.

Technical Service Bulletin Number 08-03-08-003A addresses this problem. There were 7 different Gen II 4x2 and 4x4 applications and now Gen III have only 3 part numbers for the same application.

The new hub assembly will have a spline open center and this is acceptable

Proper torque is 133 ft. lbs the mounting bolt.

Regards,
netvan

i had that problem with my 91 and finally i baught the spring kit at 300.00 it was well worth it,it is smooth but not as good as air,but i dont have to worry about it popping or the air leaking

I'm not sure what you mean by headlight covers. If you mean the lens that is supposed to be in front of the bulb, you need the whole headlight assembly. Check with your local junkyard. Those would go for about $20-$40 each around here(SE PA).

Pump is attached to the front of the engine. Easy way to find it is to look at the new one in the box.Old one looks just like it but dirtier. Since the fan came off and went into the radiator, I suggest you replace it. a slight bend in any blade and that is enough to quickly destroy the bearing in the new pump. Likely you can save lots of $ if you get the radiator and fan assembly from a scrapyard. Since you can't find the pump, it is safe to assume you have never done this work before...You can get yourself a vehicle specific manual that covers all you need to know for about $20 at any larger parts house. Both haynes and chilton are pretty decent for what you need. One important tip...make sure you remove every part of the old gasket before putting the pump back on...also change the thermostat. they get unreliable once overheated.
Good luck!

Can you supply digital photos of what you have?
Charlie Kuss