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Melissa Bryden Posted on Apr 07, 2018

My norditrack gx 4.5 keeps losing resistance. I pedal and then it just spins and then engages again?

It works for a minute or two and then skips for a few seconds and then re engages

3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 61 Answers
  • Posted on May 07, 2009

SOURCE: brake loss

The intermittence and the air sound leads me to believe that this is most likely a bad brake booster/and or master cylinder. The master cylinder is easy enough to replace (you just have to remember to bench bleed the cylinder and still bleed the brakes because you inevitably get air in them) but have changed a booster myself. I've heard its not bad if you know what you're doing but don't really know myself. 

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Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 14, 2009

SOURCE: have a leaky clutch slave cylinder, keeps losing

Replace the clutch slave cylinder and re-bleed the system. It's pretty straightforward. I loosen the nut for the fluid BEFORE removing the bolts that secure the slave cylinder to the transmission. And I'd likely swap out the clutch master cylinder at the same time. These parts do go out on these models.

jagjeffery

Jeffery Lewis

  • 329 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 06, 2012

SOURCE: 98 explorer air conditioning compressor only engages for a few seconds, what do I check first

It sound like it has a low charge but if you know that it is fully charged you may have a bad low pressure switch . Also make sure that the condensor fan is working properly and the system is not building to much pressure.

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Have a 98 Mazda 626 2.0l 5spd. Recently had clutch replaced, and master cylinder, but at different times, ( about 100miles apart... after clutch replcd, pedal went to floor to engage. There is no...

check the slave cylinder adjustment as normally there is no adjustment on the piston rod
There should be about 1/4 " free play between rod and throw out arm
the pivot bolt for the throw out arm should never be adjusted
what you have indicates air in the system or a faulty clutch master cylinder
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no resistance is air in the system and that can be from a faulty master cylinder
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If you're not losing any brake fluid then it sounds to me as though the master cylinder is bleeding fluid between to two chambers allowing fluid to pass from one to the other which would decrease the pressure on one of the lines leading to the proportioning valve, thus setting off the 'brake' light.

Orrrrr,

IF it does NOT have the hydroboost system the following steps MAY help diagnose if it's a booster problem.

(Copied and pasted from a youtube comment)

Test 1) 1. Start the car 2. Let it idle for 2 minutes 3. After 2 minutes turn off the car 4. Pump the brake pedal 3 times 5. The pedal should rise every time if it does then the Booster and Check valve are OK 6. If the pedal doesn't then the is an issue with the either one, run tests 1 and 2.

Test 2) 1. Start the car 2. Let it idle for 2 Minutes 3. After 2 minutes push down the brake pedal and HOLD it 4. While holding the pedal down turn off the car 5. The pedal should NOT rise for at least 30 seconds 6. If it doesn't rise then the Check Valve is good 7. If the pedal rises before 30 seconds then the Check Valve is faulty.

Test 3) 1. Shut off the Engine 2. Pump the brake pedal 4 times 3. On the 4th one keep it pushed down and start the car while holding the pedal down 4. The pedal should sink down. 5. If it sinks, the booster is Fine.

Myself, I'm leaning towards the master cylinder having an internal 'leak' or bypass problem.

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