Maytag model MVWC35
I think if it isn't draining on one cycle but is on another. I would try to narrow it down to the Main Control Board. If the pump was bad, it wouldn't drain at all, just spin on all cycles. A local appliance repair should have an replacement. Or order online.
SOURCE: Maytag dependable care plus washer (Model LAT
The belt turn the pulley, but the height of the pulley is worn out so it didn't push up a mechanism to release the brake and to engage with the clutch to make the spin.
You have to takethe shaft out to study how it works then it makes sense on what I 'm talking.
The pulley cost only $11 but it is a major laboring exercise. It is a good learning to have hands on to this problem. Good luck on replacing the pulley.
SOURCE: Maytag washer squeaks when spin cycle stops
We have a Maytag Performa G3300 that we bought on 8/13/2001. It still works great, but on 2/25/10 it stopped heating. We found that by removing the front panel and vacuuming the accumulated lint on the inside of the dryer and the door, the problem was resolved. There were no parts to replace, just vacuuming.
SOURCE: I have a Commercial Series
Replace the "water inlet valve" on your machine. If you could post your model number I can point you to the part you need.
SOURCE: Washer immediately goes into wash cycle when
The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
SOURCE: Maytag Centennial Washer model MVWC6ESWW1
It
sounds like this is a clutch and brake assembly problem. The clutch
spring must
provide the necessary pressure for the lining to turn with the hub and
the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake. The
clutch spring of your washer must be weak or the clutch lining is worn
causing it to slide and not release the brake. This prevents the tab
that holds
the clutch spring to force the brake cam driver, release the brake, and
allow the basket to spin particularly when the machine is under load. This is manifested in the spinning of the drum when the machine is empty. The clutch and brake assemblies are located just below the tub and the excessive heat resulted from the friction between the clutch lining and the clutch hub.
Remove the thrust washer from the agitator shaft then remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip using a screwdriver. Unsnap the clip and the clutch retaining ring the slide the clutch off the agitator shaft. Make sure to retain the washer located under the clutch.
Install the new clutch assembly on top of the gearcase then insert the clutch band
and hold it in place. Using a pair of
needle-nose pliers, place the end caps on the clutch spring and
compress to insert into the open end of the band. Release the tension on
the spring and the band will stay in place the reinsert the retaining clip on top of the clutch.
You
don't have to accept or reject this post in order to add comment or
information. But accepting the solution
should you find it helpful and/or informative will not stop you from
posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.
2,769 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Prediksi Sydney
Prediksi Singapore
Prediksi Hongkong
×