Hi, Hotpoint washer WML tripped my main breaker last night part through wash cycle. Can restore electricity and get power & lights on washer but as soon as door is closed trip occurs again.

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

there must be something wrong with the computer board, I would try getting some one else to have a look at it,if its triping the braker on the fuse board it must be the washing machine

You may have a short in that circuit or a bad breaker.

run the machine, after it trips, unplug and carefully touch the motor,it may have a bad capacitor, or dry bearings causing it to draw excessive current,if these 2 things are not it, then look for a bare wire that may be touching case during this part of the cycle,and if you can get an "Amprobe" it reads current and check machines current draw during the start to trip current

If it is tripping the breaker, the first question that has to be asked is how many other appliances do you have on the same circuit. When the washer goes to spin it will start to draw slightly more electricity than once its at a full spin(much like the energy needed to get a car moving is greater than once it is up to speed), but it is not enough to trip the circuit unless there the circuit is already near capacity.

Before attempting to check electric of the washer, check and remove items from the circuit. To know what circuit runs your washer you will need to take a pigtail or a radio and plug it into the outlet Go to circuit breaker box and turn on and off circuits until the radio goes out.. Once you acertain what circuit your washer is own, go throughout the house and see what circuts are shared with the washer. Unplug any that are shared with washer. Your Hotpoint needs no more than 15 amps to run but if your overloaded on the circuit, the spin is enough for it to trip the circuit. Try washer and see if you go through the full cycle.

First unplug your washer. Check the ground on the washer and make sure it isn't loose; this would be a good time to inspect the wiring harness for any problems. Next check the outlet (turn off the electric to that breaker first) make sure all the wires are tight and are making good contact; pay special attention to the neutral (white) wire. If that seems fine, and you are comfortable with going into you breaker panel, turn off that breaker and check the hot (the wire on the breaker) to make sure it isn't loose and then check the neutral wire. If either of these wires seem loose tighten them down....a loose wire will move when a load is put on it and cause the breaker to trip. If all seems normal and washer is still tripping the breaker you might want to replace the breaker.....they can go bad. Good luck!

You need to measure with a voltmeter for 115 Volts at the electrical box under the washer front. Breakers can fail, yet look ok. This will check the breaker output and all of the wiring in between. There may also be a local circuit breaker that tripped.

Are you around when the breaker trips? It almost seems as though an electrical connection is getting wet. Especially if it won't let you reset the breaker. Another reason for not letting you reset the breaker could be an overload that tripped but that to me would be within the machine, it shouldn't trip at the panel. You get pull the machine apart and check for these things. Look for and wetness or wire connections being crossed, anything like that. Something at the spin cycle is shorting out and tripping out your breaker. Also is your dryer circuit properly sized (30AMP Breaker with 10/3 wire)?

A faulty heater in both a washing machine and dishwasher will trip swithes because they both cause an earth........the chances are you heater needs replacing......the reason its tripping after a short period is probably beacause the cycle doesnt start heating the water until after approx 15-20 mins depending on the cycle chosen

check the wiring and make sure nothing metal is on the motor because your dryer has a short in it somewhere