SOURCE: Reassembly of Auger Housing
If you go to www.mtdcanada.com you should be able to find aparts breakdown for your machine which will be helpfull in puting it back together.You will need your model and serial # to find your parts breakdown. The breaedown wont tell you how to do it but it will give you a good idea. if it's not helpful the if you post the model and serial # here then I can see what you will need to do.
SOURCE: Thottle will no stay in one position. There is a
Three (3) possible carbs were available on your machine.
If you have:
Walbro model WT-606 carb, the choke and throttle levers are available in kit form (which leads me to believe the spacer comes with them). Throttle lever kit part #530071726 and choke lever kit part #530071725.
If you have:
ZAMA model C1Q-W11 carb, the choke AND throttle levers are BOTH a part of the carb itself. (Would need a whole carb to get your part.) Complete carb part #530071465.
If you have:
ZAMA model C1Q-W11C carb, the choke and throttle levers are available in kit form (which leads me to believe the spacer comes with them). Throttle lever kit part #530071715 and choke lever kit part #530071716.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: I cant get the bolt loose to remove pulleys from
easy , you must learn to improvise ,use a nice knuckle bar ,preferably snap on then jam this in the suspension with the socket on the nut and turn starter motor .it will come undone with no problem.most important do not forget to put some locktite on thread when re fitting,also make sure you put some white paint marks on the pulleys to the bloc so you know where they time up do not paint teh belt because you WILL change it and paint teh milage on teh timing cover and date for anyone else to know when it was done last
SOURCE: I am trying to remove the covers on my Schwinn 418
Hello there. Unfortunatley there is no way other than removing the crank arms. You do need to remove the nut on the axle and you will need a crank puller. The puller is available at any local bicycle shop for around 10-15 dollars.
Good Luck Tim
SOURCE: Hi I am trying to
I am assuming that you have removed the end bell with field winding and the only obstacle is the rotor on the crank of the engine. I am also assuming that you were able to remove the long bolt thru rotor into crank. Now you will need to apply penetrating oil to the shaft of the engine to loosen the rust on the taper. It may take several applications. Place a piece of hardwood against metal to protect the rotor and firmly rap with hammer on both sides. You may need to use pry bar against engine and rotor as you hammer hardwood. Repeat as necessary, some rotors will be very stuck due to rust. Be very carefull with hammer and or prybars not to damage windings. Have patience and let oil work. Good luck.
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Use
a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover
in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection
points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication
will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a
grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with
lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the
next step.
2
Remove
the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with
one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the
pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the
flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.
3
Test
the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium
grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach
the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and
front top cover to complete the repairs.
Link Arms
1
Unplug
the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars
and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a
screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each
connection. This will expose the pivots.
2
Put
a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen
the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly
for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the
next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and
reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the
machine.
3
Have
an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot
hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop
out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the
hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver
with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the
bearing on the opposite side.
4
Hold
each bearing next to one ear and turn the inner race with your
finger. If you hear grinding noises or the bearing is rough, it must
be replaced. Lubricate the bearing with lithium grease and a grease
gun. Replace the bearing into the hub. Reattach the lower handlebars
and footpad link arms and put the elbow covers on.
Lubrication
1
Detach
the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of
machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the
pedals.
2
Remove
the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals
from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles
on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the
axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.
3
Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the uprigh
Spacer on crankshaft timing sensor and camshaft position sensor.
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