I took the thing apart about 2-years ago when it wouldn't start and only got it together again this week so I may(!) have missed something. The not starting was probably just low oil - it has enough fresh oil now and starts but won't rev to produce AC Power even when I connect a load (I've tried a 30W LED light and a 1000W Vacuum cleaner)
Technically the governor in itself is not adjustable but requires an initial setting after assembly. Once the governor is set, the throttle is adjusted to obtain the desired RPMs.
Instructions for setting governor, plus more.
https://www.outdoorking.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/65896/honda-gc160-governor-help-needed.html
The shop manual may be selected and downloaded from
http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/shop-manuals?e=1_23&p=all&d=all&l=all&t=all
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If throttle position can't be adjusted for 3600 RPMs, then likely you didnt't reassemble throttle/governor linkage correctly.
Your governor is adjusted for the correct 60 hertz cycles. You may have lost residual voltage to excite the generator to produce ac. Being that it was sitting long time.
I could explain in lengthy conversations but you could just google : how to excite a generator and there is good write ups online as well if not better than what I could explain in detail.
Testimonial: "That answer/solution does not make any sense to me... What 'residual voltage' may I have lost? Further help needed please."
SOURCE: replacing power steering belt for 98' eclipse rs -
if i remember right those belts are not together cuz your car has two belts on it one that goes from the crank pullel that runs the a/c and alt and then one thats from the crank to the power steering
SOURCE: Car keeps stalling out along with reduced power and check engine
you did not id what year/make/model but it sounds a lot like a typical failure of the MAP
however, depending on your year/make/model the code could also be a sign of an power concern to your PCM, (powertrain control module) aka computer
SOURCE: My 2006 ford focus zx4
With a multimeter check the voltage at battery terminals. Should be more than 12.6Volts when engine off, and at least 14 volts with engine on. If the battery voltage is less than 12.6 volts then you need a new battery. If the voltage is less than 14 Volts with running engine, then the alternator is not working properly. A stop at AutoZone might help. They scan codes, and check alternators for free.
Testimonial: "Thanks that's exactly what my dad and a mechanic said thanks for the good advice."
SOURCE: My vehicle stopped dead at
Sounds like you have a fuel issue. It could be a fuel pump cutting in and out. It could be fuel pressure regulator, or an injector not spraying correct. I think it's time to find an honest educated repairman.
Testimonial: "Thanks for your advice, I will put this to a new Mechanic and see if he thinks it's the solution."
SOURCE: 1995 Silverado 1500 350
How did you inspect your parts. Sometimes a part might look ok when actually it is bad. When was the last time you replaced your Fuel filter? I would perform a fuel pressure test. You may have a weak fuel pump. You don't list checking your plug wires. You may have some bad plug wires. Also remove your rotor and look in the distributor. There is a part located under where the rotor goes that is a ceramic type of material. I can't remember what they call it but inspect it for cracking. Is is a fairly common thing. If you see cracking you will need to replace the distrubutor shaft which is not a big deal or you can buy a remanned distributor if you don't want to mess with it. Also you may have an EGR valve that is sticking open which could cause your symptoms.
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OK - Residual Magnetism I get.
However that's not the issue I have - If I manually open the throttle to rev the engine it generates power and runs those loads, but then returns to idle if I let go of the throttle (with or without the loads). Sorry I didn't make that clear.
Cheers!
Your throttle should have an adjustable linkage! This is where you can adjust speed for 61 Hertz.
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