Samsung 953BW blue power lights just flashes when turned on nothing visible on screen with no computer connected

Hi, maybe the TV controller board is blocked, you can reset it, by disconnecting power cable from outlet for about 5 minutes, if that doesn't work, possibly and internal board or component must be repaired of replaced, in such case it's better to contact an authorized Samsung service center or technician to check your TV.

Did you try another monitor with this PC? It may have video card problem.

First thing I would try will beusing this monitor with another PC using the same the same setup to see if it works OK. We need to narrow down the cause of the problem first since you have three parts that can be bad; Monitor, DVI cable, PC Video card/PC. It is just a process of elimination to locate the problem.

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/

Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.

Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

Since it sounds like an issue with the Power first try to release flea power.Disconnect the charger,remove battery,press and hold down the power button for 30 seconds.Reconnect the battery and charger.Turn on system and check if it turns on. For further help please check Dell Inspiron 1525 Manual. Also confirm if the light on the charger stays on,when connected to the system.

At this point you need to open up the monitor and inspect the inside.
Most common failure in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed SAMSUNG and other monitors to get some ideas what goes wrong: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
http://www.badcaps.net
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

hi,
your lcd ip board (power board) capacitor had already exhusted.
got to replace the ip board

hi, i have the same problem...any solution?

Oct 23, 2009- This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.

Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. Oct 23, 2009- I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.

Although the OP was 2009. I had this problem.

I simply replaced the power board. Which I bought from ebay for $20AUD.
It was real easy to remove as well. Just have a look for youtube videos.

Fixed!

Hi...there,
It's seems you got a busted AD Board... your LCD bios had been damaged or erased.