Tighten handle on fisher and paykel smart fridge

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel fridge door handle loose

Yes hello, I had the same problem - similar fridge model.  Mine was the fridge (not freezer) door handle ie. the upper door.  There are no small holes on the bottom of my fridge handle.  Working from the outer door edge, I gently prized loose the plastic trim located under the door.  I didn't take it completely off, just loosened about one quarter of the length, enough to flex the trim downward so that I could then access the phillips head screw that secures the fridge handle from the inside of the door.  The trim will prevent you from using a conventional screw driver to tighten the screw.  I used a screw driver bit which is only 25mm long.  It has an hexagonal end to which I applied a small spanner and voila - the handle is once more secure.  Good luck.

Charles T Nevin

• 4070 Answers
• Posted on Oct 28, 2009

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel N500B fridge freezer. Freezer not freezing

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel active smart fridge keeps

press the select button ( the button that you choose the temperature on the fridge and freezer) and check that the fan on both fridge and freezer are working.

SOURCE: Noisy, Chattering fan with fisher & paykel fridge.

HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.


The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.


This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.....

SOURCE: fisher & paykel washing machine fault codes

I have a Fisher & Paykel GW609AU Smartdrive Excellence 6.5 Washing Machine that would start then stop then start then stop a few more times before eventually beeping.
I fixed it by bypassing(joined the white and yellow wire) the trip out switch which is located under the control module(one screw to remove).Now it Works.