This is an electric dryer,first thing to do is on the back where the cord connects to the dryer,make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer,if you do unplug the dryer,open the door and remove the four screws,two that hold the door on and the other two opposite the door screws,pull off the front panel,with a 5/16 inch nut driver or socket remove the screws holding on the bulkhead,if you start on the left side i believe the bottom screw has a cutout in the metal,remove that screw,then look at the right side half way up,you should see another screw with the cutout in the metal,remove that,then remove the very bottom screw on the right and remove the other screw opposite the one on right in the middle on the left side,then remove the two on top with the L bracket that holds the top down.any other screws in the bulkhead leave them there,they hold the two panels of the bulkhead together so you don't want to take all the screws out.lift the bulkhead up and out,you have to lift the top panel up a little to do this,then you'll see a metal clip on the right bottom holding the wires to the frame,pull that off,and move the bulkhead to the right with the wires still connected to it,reach in and remove the belt and drum,while you're in here get a shop vac and vac up all the lint,set it up to blow and blow the motor off and blow all the lint out of the heater box,once you get that cleaned out in like 12 months you can unplug the dryer,remove the front panel and blow all the lint out with the drum still in there to keep the lint out of the motor and heater so you don't have a fire and the motor will last longer.also with this dryer,if you remove the front cover to the blower wheel housing you can stick a leaf blower in there and clean out the vent line too,you'll see the hole that the air blows through just stick the leaf blower in there and blow,this way you don't have to pull the dryer out,remove the vent line to clean it out.you want to do this also because if you have a bad thermal fuse it will keep popping if the dryer isn't cleaned out,if the dryer is clogged with lint it runs to hot and the thermal fuse or high limit t-stat will pop and will have to be changed out.now with your meter you want to check the thermal fuse,this is the white part with two wires going to it on the blower wheel cover part WP33001762 you want to remove at least one of the wires,set your meter at 20k ohms,touch the two leads to the part where the wires connect to the fuse,if you see 1 on the meter the part is bad or open,if you see anything else but 1 the part is good or closed,it's that easy to check these parts,if that's good go to the heater box,remove one of the red wires going to the heater and then check it the same way,if that's good check the t-stats on the heater box,you should find that one of these parts are bad,the only other things it could be is the timer or motor but usually it's not one of those.hope this helps you out,if you need any more help write back,also could you just let me know you got this,i answer people and like one out of 20 write back,i just want to know you did get this thanks.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-nu...
go here,put your model number in and you can see all parts in your dryer good luck,this is a good dryer,neptune style,i would hold on to this dryer as long as you can,
sorry also clean out the bulkhead where the lint filter slides down into.
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SOURCE: maytag dryer belt replacement
Diagram E
Style: Flat with ribs
Installation Tips: Flat side of belt against drum
SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis MDE6200AYW will run, but no heat
Check to make sure that you have the proper voltage running to the dryer first. Next you may have a problem with your heating element or with your thermal fuse. Get your dryer opened up so you can see your heating element. Run the dryer and if you see the heating element come on and then turn right back off again then you have a bad thermal fuse. If it doesn't come on at all though then the heating element is bad. Both parts can be picked up at your local appliance repair shop. Just make sure to unplug the dryer before replacing the part. If you have any other questions let me know and let me know if this was helpful for you. Good luck.
SOURCE: disable buzzer on Maytag Atlantis MDE6200AYW
it could be done by taking the control panel off and maybe diconnecting the buzzer other than that what I have researched there is no other way sorry
SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis MDE6200AYW loose dryer paddle
You might have to remove the back, then the top, but it looks like the paddles are either held on buy a screw from the outside of the drum or they just have clips that lock them to the drum. Once the back is removed, you should be able to see how the top is held on. I think it is screwed or has clips for the back and then you slide it forward to unlock the front tabs. You can follow this if you don;t get a reply
from someone who has worked on this model#. Hope you get it apart ok and fixed by yourself.
SOURCE: maytag performa dryer will not heat up
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
maytag performa dryer Model PDGT910AWW
"No Heat" complaint.
Firstly, make sure that you have selected/ascertained a "Heat" setting, then read the checklist below provided by; www.repairclinic.com
They also provide disassembly diagrams and repair parts..
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter
Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.
The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.
Gas valve coils
Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
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We’re sorry to hear of the concerns you're having with your Maytag® Dryer. We'd like to follow up with you regarding your concerns. Please email us at [email protected] with your name, phone number, address, the website you were contacted on (Fixya), the model/serial number and date of purchase so we may do so. Please include a brief description of your concerns in your email. Thank you Maytag® Social Care
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