My KitchenAid mixer died. It’s like there is no electric going to it. I’ve checked the outlets, GFI and the circuit breaker

When your stand mixer does not turn on the problem might be a lack of electrical power, broken wires or a failed motor or control problems. First, check the outlet's GCFI breaker and reset it if it's tripped. If the mixer still won't work when plugged into a working electrical outlet then unplug the mixer and check the power cord.

Try a different Receptacle outlet if it trips that breaker you know its the mixer, and there will prob be a short/loose connection somewhere

If the mixer died completely and no noise at all comes from the machine you need one of three things.
1. New brushes2. new speed control switch3. a new motor.

The KP26 is a 6 quart mixer of the new design, post 2002, it is easy to work on and relatively inexpensive for parts if it turns out to be the motor that will be about $100.00, the speed control about 30.00, the brushes on this mixer cannot be replaced you have to install a new motor, sry about that. Hope this helps let us know. But first check that the electric outlet you are working from has not tripped the breaker on the circuit too. I know I know it's silly to say but check the outlet first before you spend a dime on anything.

It sounds like your mixer has a bad ground connection. Sorry electrical is not my forte, but something in the mixer wiring is the problem, not the wall outlet..

A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

The obvious would be a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Go to your main fuse box and check for that. If you have a GFI outlet or circuit breaker, reset that. Some outlets protected by Ground Fault Interrupters are gang wired, so there may be another outlet in the room that has the GFI outlet that controls the outlet you are using. You may have to check for them. The GFI outlet usually has two small push buttons on it, one is TEST and the other is RESET.
If it is not easily fixed by those items, you will most likely need to pull the outlet from the wall box and see if you can trace it from there. First check these as they are the easiest fixes.
If you find my solution to be of help, I would appreciate a Thumbs Up from you. If my solution does not solve your problem, please contact me and we can go from there. Paul

GFCI receptacles are polarized and connecting them correctly is critical. The hot wire should be black, blue, red, etc. The neutral should be white or natural gray. The ground should be green (if equipped).

Also, it's common to have other receptacles in a kitchen wired "downstream" of a GFCI so that if the GFCI trips or there is an issue with another non GFCI outlet, you're still protected.

Check all outlets in the kitchen and be sure they are wired correctly and in good shape. Unplug everything while you test. If the GFCI still trips, start looking for loose neutrals or bad ground wiring (or no ground) at the other receptacles since you said you already checked the breaker box.

A coffee maker can be a cuplrit that causes a GFCI to trip since it is a heating device and uses water, which can make them more susceptible to electrical problems. Check the microwave too (if equipped).

you, or your electrician has pulled power from one of the gfi outlets to power the electric sparker on the stovetop. If you can figure out which gfi that the power was pulled from, open up the box and find the wire that runs to the stove and remove it from the gfi outlet and connect it to the power before it goes to the gfi.

hello, is it plugged into a gfi outlet ?in most newer kitchen with in the past 15 years most outlets are gfi in your kitchen,thay have a breaker build into the outlet that you can reset on the cover of the outlet also check your breaker on your main power breaker panel and try a different outlet to make sure the wiring for that outlet is'nt bad, also check the plug wires make sure there not loose if nothing then you'll have to take your blender apart to check the internal components.