My washer will agitate, drain, and fill. But it won't spin.

It is very likely that the transmission needs to be replaced/repaired.

Inside most top loading washer transmissions is a small part that lets the motor drive the transmission in either the agitation mode or the spin mode. When this part shifts back and forth into the position for wash or spin, it can get broken.

When it locks the transmission into the spin position, the motor and transmission can now spin the wash tub to help remove excess water from the clothes. When this lock breaks, the washer will still wash and agitate and the motor will still pump out the water in the washer, but without the spinning of the tub, clothes will not be damp dry enough to be put into the dryer.

The part itself isn't much money, but the problem is that the repair isn't easy for even a good DIY'er to perform, as you have to remove the agitator, wash tub, tub seal boot, and the transmission from the cabinet just to get ready for the repair process.

IF you can even get the repair part for the broken transmission (difficult as most manufacturers only let authorized service dealers buy these sub-components these days), it will be VERY messy to disassemble the transmission and remove all the oil and broken metal pieces from the transmission lock part and then completely clean out the inside of the transmission housing replace the gear assembly and put in the new lock piece, plus add back new, clean appliance trans oil and a new end seal on the transmission housing.

When I first started out as a service tech, we used to rebuild the washer transmissions on used customer "trade-ins" when we had nothing else scheduled, so we could resell the used appliances and make a few bucks.

Bottom line is that for all the time, mess and expense you're going to have to go through, it isprobably best to buy a new washer. Especially if your washer is more than 10 years old, since the tub is probably starting to get rust spots, etc.

Hello, your problem is going to be with the lids switch, in this machine it is going to be a magnetic contact. You can confirm this my pulling the front panel off and accessing the wiring to the lids switch, If you have electrical knowledge bypass the lid switch using a wire nut and run the machine. If all is ok make sure you replace the lid switch since it is there for a reason. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!!! Thanks for using Fix-ya. A high rating would be appreciated for your free question :)

HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multitester. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)

Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.