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Erich Pyles Posted on Jan 04, 2018

2017 Cedar Creek Cottage 40CCK - Why would I not have hot water coming through my lines into the faucets?

I have cold water but no hot water running to the faucets. There is hot water in the hw tank and the lines coming out of the hw tank are warm.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 29, 2008

SOURCE: Water is either hot or cold - no in between.

I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.

So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?

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Anonymous

  • 332 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2009

SOURCE: Vaillant Mag 325 warm water only full pres. cold low pressure

you need a certain amount of water pressure for the water heater to turn on this is actaully one of the biggest problems that all manifactures forgot to tell anyone it is normal for the computer to shut down beings it is designed to heat water at a fast rate when you turn the water down, it's not enough pressure for for sensors to turn on to heat the water so turn on the spigot a little more and enjoy

Anonymous

  • 61 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 19, 2009

SOURCE: warm water only

You can eliminate the shower control knob possibility by turning on your hot water anywhere else in the house. If you get hot water in other places, then it could be the knob causing it. A substantial lime buildup in the tank can also cause poor heat transfer from the elements to the water.

muttandjeff

Allen Neal

  • 359 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2009

SOURCE: I have a Reliance 501 gas hot water heater that

hook up garden hose to faucet @ the bottom of the tank and drain the hose to the outdoors or down a floor drain and open the valve , leaving the cold supply valve on , let it run until it runs clear , this will get rid of some of the sediment deposit that form at the bottom of tank , is the most effective way i know , good luck

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on May 24, 2010

SOURCE: I have a problem with my Rinnai hot water heater

We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.

Solution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.

Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.

If you are reasonably mechanically inclined:
TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.

The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.

My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem.

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Why is there no hot water?

Check the heating elements for continuity.
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Why hot water heater on my cedar creek travel

You needed to post more info. does it have power to the heater. Is it electric or gas? if electric and it has power to the heater you need to check with an electrical tester if there is power across the element terminals, If not it needs to be replaced
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Not a water heater problem, it is a faucet to valve connection issue

You can do this one of two ways:

Get an appropriate sized plumbing plug for the unused line. This will mean you only get water from the cold side and no flow from the other, or...

Get an appropriate "T" fitting and connect both lines from the faucet together, then run your supply line to the "T". This will mean you get the same pressure regardless of the cold/hot orientation of the handle.

I have used the second solution for deep sinks where hot water is not readily available.
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Hot Water Pressure from taps

Hard water deposits from the water heater in the supply lines to the faucets. Sounds like your water heater needs to be cleaned out -- not just drained of water. You need to get inside and clear out the deposits in the bottom of the tank. You also need to remove the hot water supply lines to your faucets and see of you can get the lines to run free from the deposits -AFTER you clean out the water heater. Remove the drain -put on a 3/4 in. ball valve for the drain and a hose bibb on that - you can hook up a 5/8 - or 3/4 inch hose to get the particles out of the drain of the water tank. You may have to blow back the water line, from the faucets, the hot water lines- to get the deposits out of the water lines. You also may have to blow out the faucets with the water line disconnected to clear the calcium out of the hot side of the faucet.
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Our rheem pronto tankless rutg-74xp red light will come home indicating hot water and stay on about 2 minutes and then turns off we have turned off and back on and let water run for 5 minutes and will come...

Before calling service technician, open following link for Rheem troubleshooting resources.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

List of causes MIGHT include one of following:
Bad household circuit breaker that powers electronics, or loose wire inside outlet where tankless plugs in.
Tankless fuses and control board.
Water flow rate too low. Minimum .8 gallon required (depending on model)
Tankless inlet filter clogged.
Household aerators clogged at faucets.
Crossover at single-handled faucet
If installed, there can be crossover at mixing valve.
Faulty household check valve, including check valve on re-circulation system if that system is installed.
Restriction in household water line, such as clog at elbow.
Unequal pressure in household hot and cold lines, caused by restriction in hot line. When single-handled faucet turns on, the cold water pressure is higher so hot does not flow and tankless will not turn on.
Loose wire connection inside tankless.
Unit temperature set too high.
Unit temperature set too low.
Water temperature is very hot coming out of tap, so more cold is added, but that reduces amount of hot water flow, so tankless turns off because flow rate is too low.
On some tankless, if water is preheated by solar or other indirect source, the burner will not activate.
High mineral content in water > delime tankless yearly
Misaligned temperature sensor
Low gas pressure. Wrong type of gas. Undersized gas line.
Too many faucets on at same time.
Faulty tankless water valve. Water valve stuck.
Fluctuating household water pressure, for example MUD and PUD district water pressure problems or water well pressure.
Faulty household pressure reducing/regulating valve if installed.
Faulty household pressure tank, if installed -or- pressure tank needs to be installed.
1helpful
1answer

I have replaced my electric water heater and I have checked everything I can think of and I still run out of hot water in 3 minutes. What on earth is the problem.

3 minutes?? does the water run cold then? or just warm?
Is this what the tank you replaced was doing? If so, then you may have: 1 a recirculating pump instant hot water system thats faulty and allowing cold water backflow into hot water piping. 2 A tempering valve that has stuck, allowing cold water into your hot water system.
Or maybe a broken or missing dip tube in your new heater.
If after 3 minutes the water is coming cold out leave that faucet running and go to heater and feel the hot water outlet pipe from the heater. if that pipe is hot then the heater is not the problem. If the hot pipe from the heater is cold the heater is the problem. (Make sure the cold pipe coming into the heater is connected to the Right side marked "cold" !) If there is a tempering valve by the heater: feel the output from the tempering valve, if it is cold and the pipe from the heater to the tempering valve is hot, then the tempering valve is the problem. If all these are OK somewhere in your plumbing system hot and cold may be connected possibly a faucet or showerhead that is shut off at the spout/head, but hot/cold handles are left turned on then cold water can backflow thru hot pipe.

2helpful
3answers

Water is either hot or cold - no in between.

I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.

So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?
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