Zigzag foot 0 is versatile all purpose foot which beautifully handles straight stitch and zigzag sewing projects as well as decorative projects and embroidery
Be sure stitch is in between the two fabrics when straight stitch. Adjust tension until stitch is between top and bottom fabric. Use different color top thread to make it easier to see. Once tension is correct sewing straight, switch to zigzag.
Remove hook race and bobbin. Clean area with vacuum. Replace needle. Try different thread and fabric.
It means that your top thread tension is tighter than your bottom thread, and it's pulling your bobbin thread up. You loosen your top thread by turning the dial towards the "S." You should only have to loosen it by a maximum of one number; if it's more than that, you may have to adjust the bobbin thread tension.
You do that by first turning off the machine and removing the embroidery unit. Turn the tension dial to S. It helps to use a different color top and bottom thread, with the scrap fabric a third color. Run a straight stitch and zigzag stitch and examine them. If one size of the zigzag looks like "chicken tracks" or one side of the straight stitch is a straight line, it means that side is too tight. Take a look at your user's manual on page 11. If your top tension is on "S" and it is the side that is too tight, you will need to tighten the bobbin tension, to match the top tension. Tensions are a BALANCE.
The next step needs to be done systematically and carefully. If you don't, you can really make things worse. Set your mind to doing everything step by step--don't get tempted to jump ahead. Take the needle plate off and take out the bobbin case, and locate two screws on the side. One is a Phillips screw--leave it alone. The other is a straight screw--that's the one, and you will need a tiny screwdriver to adjust it.
The rule is "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey." Remember, you are trying to match the top tension! Give the screw on the case no more than 1/4 turn, reinsert and retest. You should see at least a little improvement. Keep doing that until you have balanced your stitches, and DON'T jump ahead! The difference between too tight or too lose is often a very small turn of that screw--especially when you're close.
a wide zig-zag on a light weight fabric single layer is almost guaranteed to pucker up, just because the thread is under tension and this is often stronger than the fabric being pulled together by the stitches.
However, if a straight seam is puckering, this could be caused by a blunt needle, too big needle, or too tight tension or too long stitch length. You should be able to vary some of these variables to reduce the puckering and improve the stitch appearance. Other things to check might be the top thread being caught up somewhere in the thread path and pulling on the stitching.
If I am finishing the cut edge of aa single layer of light weight fabric I would use a three step zigzag to hold the fabric firmly and neatly.
You would pull out several long lengths of matching thread from my spool of thread and knot the threads together at one end (to hold them together). Grab the knotted end of threads with your left hand and place the threads(held taunt together) under the presserfoot of your sewing machine.
Select a narrow zigzag stitch that will zigzag over the threads, and holding both the knotted end(Left hand) and the other ends with right hand( holding tauntly), zigzag down the length of the threads.
You can use this for matching button loops, cording for belt loops, or whenever you need matching cord. The thickness of the cord will depend on how many strands of thread you want to use. You insert the loop of cord into the seam, so that when the garment is turned RIGHT SIDE OUT, the loop will be sticking out of the seam and you can put the button through the loop.
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