Question about Whirlpool Freezers
This site has diagrams, wiring, schematics, etc.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720
Posted on Dec 15, 2017
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This one sounds like the defrost timer is not working and you are not getting a defrost cycle every 6-8 hours (or when needed). Another issue could be that air (moisture) is getting in from a leaky door seal, etc. and causing the freeze up. If you have a sealed system problem where the cooling coils are not uniformly frosted up then the defrost thermostat will not "know" there is an ice condition and therefore not go into defrost mode (same issue if the defrost t-stat is bad). After you have ALL the ice out of the unit it would be a good idea to take the interior rear cover off so you can view the coils. Start the freezer back up and watch over the next 1/2 hour or so to see that the entire coil is frosting up uniformly. If it isn't you may have a plugged system, a leak causing low refrigerant, etc. If over time the coils look uniformly frosted up you may have a defective defrost heating element itself (no heat, no defrost sort of thing). The defrost elements can be checked with a multimeter for continuity if you know how to do that sort of thing. It's hard to know a person's ability by these forums or if they can tackle certain test procedures.
Posted on Nov 13, 2006
i dont think so i would look at the compressor kicking out on thermal overload or a faulty thermostat thermostats have two settings cut in cut out your cut in could be bad and not turning the compressor on till the temp reaches melting temps now if your hearing a click buzz then you need to look at the compressor and make sure the compressor fan is running but its not a defrost promblem
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
by the time you have fixed any faults,you might just as well buy a new(er)more effecient f/freezer.cost you less in the long run(got mine from a garage sale,owners were moving far away....)
Posted on Apr 07, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 12, 2017 | Whirlpool Freezers
Jul 18, 2017 | Whirlpool Freezers
Apr 01, 2017 | Whirlpool Freezers
Aug 26, 2010 | Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...
Apr 02, 2010 | Freezers
Aug 16, 2009 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...
Jun 09, 2009 | Whirlpool 20 cu. ft. / 566 liter Upright...
Nov 19, 2007 | Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...
65 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!