SOURCE: Error code F32 for fisher
Got the same error here, called Fisher Paykel and the said it's an error related to the water line. They recommended running 3 L of water and see if code disappeared. If not, call service, they gave me a local company. Error code has disappeared, for now.
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel model RF610
The F24 error show that the sensor in the ice maker is out of normal ranges. The usual fix is to replace the sensor in the ice maker. Also worth checking it to see is the water to the ice maker has frozen up in the value (switch the fridge off for a day). If the error still exists after that you will need to replace the ice maker sensor. You have a 2 year warranty on these parts so the fix should be free.
SOURCE: Noisy, Chattering fan with fisher & paykel fridge.
HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.
If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.
The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.
Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.
The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.
Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.
This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.....
SOURCE: My fridge is an E442BRE
If resetting the refrigerator repeatedly is undesireable, then I would see what the alarm is for.
I checked the website for fisher & paykel and they have a nice lineup of refrigerators.
However, when I tried to look up the red and green flashing light problem in their online manuals, it didn't refer to that problem.
I would try to contact the company directly at the following link: to see what could be done
http://www.fisherpaykel.com/customercare/contactus/
Good luck on this repair.
SOURCE: Error code F20 on RF610A
Hi.
F20 means that there is a problem with the defrost system. The temperature sensor and the element comprised in the defrost system must be tested. Testing is done removing the firewall panel (usually in the freezer compartment in F&P) and accessing the parts. Parts are tested reading impedance with a multimeter. The test will determine if element is open or if the temperature sensor is open at room temperature to find out if any of the two parts must be replaced. Voltage to element must also be tested.
Try performing a manual defrost. Remove all food and disconnect the fridge overnight. If the problem does not come back, then the fault was probably a temporary malfunction. If the defrost system is faulty the problem may come back after a couple of days, when the defrost system restart malfunctioning. In that case ring the F&P number listed on the owners manual to call a technician.
Regards.
Ginko
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