Without doing some testing it's hard to say what the problem is . They are controlled by a module . Here is a Description of how they are suppose to work .
Headlight Doors Circuit Description
When the headlamp switch is turned to the HEAD position, battery voltage is applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module through CKT 103. The LH head lamp door opens when battery voltage is applied to the LH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 576 and ground is applied to CKT 577. The RH headlamp door opens when battery voltage is applied to the RH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 578 and ground is applied to CKT 579. When the headlamp switch is moved to the OFF position, battery voltage is applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module through CKT 306. The LH headlamp door closes when battery voltage is applied to the LH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 577 and ground is applied to CKT 576. The RH headlamp door closes when battery voltage is applied to the RH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 579 and ground is applied to CKT 578. Battery voltage is constantly applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module from the HDLP MOT L MiniFuse® #4 (CKT 2940) and from the HDLP MOT R, MiniFuse #3 (CKT 3040). The headlamp opening door actuator control module is grounded by CKT 150 through Splice Pack #100 to G102.
Could be a lose connection , faulty input to the door actuator control module etc.... Looking at a wiring diagram an checking power an grounds using voltage drop testing would be the proper way of testing . Video's on youtube on basic electrical testing an voltage drop testing
Could be the switch going bad or a short in a wire. If it had ever been in a accident that is where i would look for a broken or smashed wire.
SOURCE: one headlight opens and closes slower than the other.
Most of the time you will find that it's rotting rubber hoses. If these have never been replaced, they're 28 years old! Engine heat, exposure to the elements that splash up under the car, and age can rot them.
Also the actuator has a rod that comes out. This rod has a seal around it. The seal rots too. The actuator is the large vacuum cannister, that looks like two pie pans put together. It is down near the headlight. When you have the hood open, look down towards one of the headlights.
Sometimes the vacuum tank develops a hole. This can be patched. It's up on the side of the fender.
Here, let me show you the headlight mechanism,
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-c3-headlight-actuator-linkage-parts-1-249-6088.html
I use this website for my parts, but this is not a link to them for advertisement. It just shows an exploded drawing, so I can explain better.
B is the Headlight Actuator. See the long rod coming out of the middle? Has threads on the end of it? Where the rod goes up into the cannister, there is a rubber seal. This dries out and cracks, and also wears through time. Corvette parts places (At least online I know they do) sell this rubber seal.
There is also a small check valve that can go bad.
You can buy the vacuum hoses in a kit. They are color coded, and have replacement instructions.
To review:
1.Check all vacuum hoses for drying and cracking. Actually squeeze them, don't just look at them. If they have a crack from your squeezing, they're shot! (You might find that some just crumble in your fingers! Oh, by the way. Dawn dishwashing soap, or GoJo takes that black rubber residue off of your fingers)
2.Start the car, let it build up vacuum. Shut the car off, and use the override switch, (Knob under the headlight switch you pull), to keep the headlights in an up position. Put your finger on that actuator rubber seal I described above, and see if you feel a vacuum leak.
If so, replace the seal.
3.It's a good idea to replace the check valve,
http://www.volvette.com/HE76.html
4.It's also a good idea to replace the vacuuum filter,
(Vacuum reserve check valve air filter) http://www.volvette.com/HE75.html
SOURCE: My 2006 chevy pickup tailgate is hard to close and
First, and maybe you already have, spray it good with some lubricant. If that doesn't help, you cand adjust the catches on the box. Loosen the bolts and slide them to where they should be. Just close it very slowly and make sure they are lined up vertically, and then check to see if they are too far in.
SOURCE: 1989 corvette - headlights do
I had to rebuild the headlight motor gears on my 89 last year. There is a plastic gear in the headlight assembly that has little plastic "barrels" in it for tension. These little bushings disentigrate over a short period of time. both of mine went out about a month apart. They are called the Delrin Bushings and sell for 8.99 a set (MAdirect). sometimes the plastic gear get's damaged, so you may want a kit. I used a new plastic set don't recall how much, they also sell brass for $59 each side. I figure the plastic lasted 20 years last time. It is not for the novice, but it wasn't too hard if you have the right tools. second side took me an hour. good instructions.
SOURCE: have 04 getz and sun roof wont work.stuck
my apologies for delay in getting back to you.only just sorted this.turned out was the little control unit for sun roof causing problem.it is cable tied to the sun roof frame beside the sun roof motor and can only get at it by dropping the head cloth on one side.learned from a hyundi dealer the switches give a lot of bother,now and again the control units do too.many thanks.
SOURCE: Corvette Headlight Motor Problem
Corvettes have a gear box on that motor. It has plastic gears in it. You probably have a gear stripped in that gear box, that lets the motor spin free. You can get repair parts to repair it, or replace the whole motor and gear box. Its an easy fix if your handy. Read all the instructions before you start.
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