Need to replace filter basket drip spout rubber ring

Try running apple cider vinegar through it. A few times. This is a mild acid that will get rid of mineral deposits from water. I do this on my coffee maker. Run straight water a few times after to get rid of the vinegar taste.

Probably just an O-ring. I don't know if you can get a rebuild kit for this valve, or you might be able to just find O- rings that fit.

https://www.waternify.com/fix-intex-plunger-valve-leaking/

These faucets can leak in three different places:

1. Internally at the valve seat
   You'll see water dripping from the spout. This means the rubber washer is worn or damaged. To replace the washer, remove the decorative cap from the handle. Remove the retaining screw and pull off the handle. Remove the decorative cover, called an escutcheon, if there is one. Unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve stem and remove it. Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place. Because these washers come in many shapes and sizes, you'll want to take the old one to the hardware store and buy an exact replacement. Be sure to buy two washers so you'll have one for the other valve. Replace the washer and reassemble the faucet.
   
2. Around the handle
   If you see water coming from below the handle, the packing nut is leaking. Older faucets have a string-like graphite packing material wrapped around the stem. Newer faucets use an O-ring. First try tightening the packing nut clockwise... about one-half turn. If this doesn't stop the leak, remove the packing nut and replace the packing or O-ring; then reassemble the faucet. If the valve is using the graphite packing material, it might be a clue that you should shop for a new faucet.
   
   
3. Between a pivoting spout and the body
   The spout might be held in place with a packing nut, similar to the faucet stem, or it might have a nut at the top of the spout. In either case, remove the spout and replace the packing material or the O-ring seal. Then reassemble the faucet.

Single lever faucets also are known as "washerless" faucets. They are easier to repair than compression faucets after you determine what type of faucet you have. There are three types of washerless faucets: ball, ceramic disk and cartridge.
Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
On cartridge-type faucets, remove the spout and pull out the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place. To remove the cartridge, pull on the cartridge stem with a twisting motion. If it resists, install the handle so you can a better grip on the cartridge to pull it out. Take the cartridge to the hardware store or home center and purchase an exact replacement kit.
Reassemble the faucet according to directions.
Leaks at the spout-to-body joint indicate an O-ring failure. Disassemble the faucet as described above. Remove the spout sleeve and replace the O-rings. It's a good idea to replace these seals if you have the faucet disassembled for repair of the ball, disk or cartridge.

You can push the soft rubber stop or valve back on the plunger stem with the flat side down. It can pull out if you are rough with it or if the plunger gets stuck in your dishes drip rack. But if it is torn you need to order a new basket because I don't think the parts are sold separately.

There are "o" rings between the spout and the body of the faucet that are getting worn and causing the leak. You need to replace the "o" rings. Shut off the water supply (both hot and cold), remove the handle, and then the spout should slide off exposing the "o" rings. You can get replacements at the hardware store. Put some vaseline on the "o" rings when you reassemble the faucet to keep the "o" rings from curling up and moving out of place. Good Luck.

if it is dripping from the spout then there is a cartridge that needs replaced...1225 for the single handle type and 1224 for the 2 handle type. Moen does not use O-rings in their valves. If it leaking around the base of the spout there is an oring kit that you will need and you will have to pull the spout off to access them. Most Moen faucets use a 117 kit for the spout but there are some different ones.

There is a lever in the back of the carafe area that pivots and controls a spring loaged valve on the bottom of the removeable filter basket. This lever breaks easily. Pull the filter basket out and you can see the lever hanging down into the carafe "bay". (assuming it's not broken off entirely).

When you pull the pot out during brewing, the lever swings forward and allows the valve on the bottom of the filter basket to close. This shuts off the flow of coffee to avoid drips. The plastic lever is held in place underneath the valve by two round tab "ears". One of these ears can break off, causing the level to hang at an angle. This means the filter valve never completely opens, even if the pot is pushed in all the way. During brewing, the filter basket can't drain into the pot fast enough and overflows.

I fixed mine by going ahead and removing the damaged lever and then wedging the valve open. The spring loaded valve has a little drip "Spout" which hangs underneath the filter basket that directs the coffee into the pot. You can push in on the back of the drip spout and wedge something into the two slots at the back to hold the valve open. This let the coffee flow freely during brewing.

the proper replacement steam ring has an up-side & down side. the brew-head plate must be installed with the grooved side facing up; the steam ring has a groove in one side that fits over the top up the brew-head plate...does this solve the problem? if not, you may have the wrong steam ring/the brewhead plate may be installed incorrectly...oh, nov of 08...i seriously hope you've figured this out already. if not, you don't happen to still have machine in your possession, do you? if so, i'll buy it for $5.

Mine just leaked and it turned out to be one of the rubber tubes from the reservoir to the heating element under the pot came off. I removed the 4+2 screws of the base plate, reinstalled the tube & since there are no clamps holding on the tubing, I used thin stainless wire double wrapped and snugged to ensure the tubing stays on this time. Note, there is wiring in the area. Make sure you do not short out any of the electronics with the wire if you chose to use it.

mine just broke this morning! i just ordered the same part from appliancepartspros.com - the part number is AP2807555. It is currently backordered until 4/25/09 - hopefully I will get that and the other part I ordered. Hope this helps.