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Get you a metal box about 4 inches X 4 inches. Use 2 female Cb antenna inputs from old Cb radios or Radio Shack. Get a old Am radio tuner out of a AM radio(530-1700 khz.) Buy or scrap up some copper wire; big gauge I used. Wound 8-10 turns about " 1 inch round close tight wound. Solder to AM tuner- C1 it shall say on top of Am tuner. Solder Center of Am tuner to Ground(Metal box). For those who know electronics the Tuner is 0-365pf Am band 530-1700khz types. OK, back to assembly. drill a hole for the Two Female Cb Inputs on both sides of metal box. Attach copper wire inside to center taps of Inputs on both sides. Drill a hole for Am tuner and Screw on its lock nut and place a knob on it. Solder all grounds of Female Antenna inputs and Tuner Ground and all Grounds to metal box. Use a washer and Bolt to lock down Grounds to Box. This is how it operates after you use a Jumper to hook to TX of Cb radio. Antenna to other side. Its just a simple L/C network. The Tx travels through copper wire(coil) inside box and gets shunted to ground by the right level of PF Capacitance. The operator tunes it in to get a close to 1.1 to 1.5 SWR ratio. Its simple, but helps with bad Antennas.
You can leave the input from the Roku hooked up, hook the antenna to the round connector that says antenna or cable on the tv then select cable or antenna as the input on the TV and select auto scan and let it scan for live chanels and store them...you can switch back and forth between the HDMI input for the Roku and the cable/antenna using the input button on the TV, you won't need to unhook or re hook anything to go from one source to the other.
If your model number is correct, you and I are both getting too old.
This set has all modern connection (or connectivity) means but nowhere did I find a mention of a cable or antenna input, including the Samsung specs on your set.
This link will show you what you (and I) would expect to find:
Try Grounding it better. Its supposed to equal 8.5 ft.(102 inches) but the coil may make that in all.You can clip like 1/8 inch off at time until it goes 2.1 Swr. Thats a good standard. 1.5 SWR is desired. If it don't have a coil with it that may be the problem. You could turn it into a 8.5 ft. antenna by buying a 102" inch whip to screw into the base of your antenna, it depends if it holds or not. You could build you a matcher like this with a solder gun+solder and 2 resistors. Get you a box with 2 female cb antenna inputs. Drill a hole for both Cb antenna inputs into box. Place them into holes screw nuts down snug. Run a copper wire inside to both grounds or a plate somewhat. Run a thick gauge copper wire from center cb ANT INPUT(2) to other input of ANT INPUT(1). Solder 2 100 ohms in parallel from input to Ground. If you could take apart your radio(eliminating the box idea). Just Solder 2 (100 ohm) resistors to your Antenna output then put it back together. 50 OHM MATCH HERE Is the main idea. I've used 75 OHM Tv coax and reduced SWR.
did you switch the TV's incoming signal to digital antenna? For the cable box it was probably set to cable antenna or analog inputs, not all TV's have automatic switching for antenna feeds. My Mitsubishi has 1 digital and 1 analog antenna input and the cable box will only work through the antenna input if it's the analog antenna input and it's tuned to channel 3 or 4, -(or through a seprate HDMI, PROSCAN, SVCR,or a yellow RCA plug input)- and when the analog antenna input is selected the TV will tune all analog cable channels that the cable service offers if a box is not used. likewise the TV will not tune any channels at all if it's set to digital antenna inputs. It will tune all local channels only when set to digital antenna inputs.
Yes, just make sure your converter box has composite and you're set to go. Your antenna will then plug directly into your converter box. If you end up needing more than one port (dvd player, gaming console, etc.), grab up an A/V switch which also works off of composite and you're all set to go.
Mine (2005 vintage) is doing the same thing. Wiggling the connector at the rear of the set cures the issue. however, it must be a loose connection inside. How about soldering the connector?
Any other ideas on how best to handle the soldering of the connector inside the set?
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