I have a Frigidaire 4.4 cu ft dorm fridge stainless steel. The drip pan needs replacing that hooks to the back of the fridge over two washers

hi, Lets do some simple things that you can do EZ.
1. Unplug keep doors closed.
2. Pull out fridge be careful of the water supply line for ice maker.
3. Remove the cardboard or metal back panel.
you will be able to access the fan and you will need to vac all the dirt and clean the fan blades with degreaser
Shoot WD 40 on fan shaft and rear of fan motor.
Vac and clean the cooling line grid on the back of fridge.
4. If it is still nosey defrost it unplug 12 hrs clean drip pan under fridge and M/T. Plug in and let it get cool. This will de-ice the crossovers.
Mike

I wonder if the sealing washer that is on this plug has been lost. These washers are usually aluminium or have a rubber insert, and without it there you are trying for a steel on steel seal.

A stripped thread can often still be backed out, that's no guarantee. Try for a tightening torque of about 15-20 ft-lb and if you get to that it isn't stripped.

Don't worry if it IS stripped, you can buy anoversize self-tapping plug.

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/common/repairInfoMain.jsp?targetPage=productsHowToInspect&leftNavPage=productsHowTo&pageId=%090996b43f80a011f7&subtitle=replace

Before going ahead and replacing your drip pan, double-check to see that the external drain hose isn't clogged, which would cause condensate to back up, overflow the drip pan, and leak into the passenger compartment. Often, these drains fill with "gunk" (mold, mud, sludge) that slows or completely stops water flow. You should be able to find the drain opening if you look under your Nissan--it probably looks like a little rubber tube that extends out 1/4 to 1/2" from the underside. Sometimes, in rear wheel drive cars, the drain hose is routed into the hump for the transmission / drive shaft--in those cases, it can be a little trickier to spot. You can also cheat and just run your A/C for a while, then look under the car for a spot that's dripping water.

You can use a variety of tools to check to see whether the drain is clogged--I used a wooden chop stick once because I was worried about tearing the hose--but a lot of these hoses have some twists and turns that make it impossible for a straight tool to probe all the way to the drip pan. I've had the best luck using bursts of high pressure water (garden hose pressure is just fine) up into the hose and letting it drain out. Often, a few bursts of that will blow out a surprising amount of gunk and increase drainage flow.

It's possible that whoever investigated your problem has already checked the drainage tubes (though I bet they only looked at the last few inches that were easily visible from the outside; clogs often form right at the drain inlet in the pan itself). If you really do have a cracked drip pan, I can't think of a way of patching the pan without taking off part of the dash to get at it it. At that point, there's little cost savings in repairing the existing pan over simply replacing it, since it's more the labor, not the cost of the part, that makes this an expensive job. Plus, if your repair doesn't hold, you'll need to remove the dash again to finally replace the pan.

Hi! My name is Tom and I can help you.

By drip pan I am going to assume you mean oil pan. First you need to get your car on blocks or up in the air enough to reach the oil pan.

Remove the drain plug and drain the oil.(discard the oil). You will see a number of bolts securing the pan. Using the proper box wrench remove all the bolts.

You will see a gasket. This must be replaced. You can purchase the proper pan gasket by asking for a pan gasket at an auto parts store. While you are there ask for the proper sealant for the gasket.

Clean the pan and any oil on the surface where the gasket will touch. Place gasket sealer around the pan and seal the gasket to the pan cover. Replace the pan. Put the bolts back and fill with oil. Start the car and get it to operational temperature and check for leaks. You are now Good to go.

This is a fairly involved yet simple fix.

Tom(karatebb2)

as the oilpan is sheet steel it is easy to spot,its on the bottom of the deepest part of the sheet steel pan and has a copper washer(replace after changing oil) behind the bolt.ONLY DO IT UP HARD HAND TIGHT.

You sure the oil comes from the plug and doesnt just run down from above and drip of it? Clean aroun the area and take a drive look again and make sure its not cming from anywhere else. If its the plug, you just need to replace the washer on the plug next time you oil change. do not try to just tighten the plug. If you buist the thread in there that an expensive repair. It should not be very tight as the washer should seal it.

Drop the tranny pan...(loosen the bolts). Be prepared to allow the fluid to come out/drip out. Then remove bolts, drop the pan, wipe the pan out. Remove the old gasket. Remove old filter. Install new filter. Install new gasket. Install the pan and tighten the bolts to the specified ft/lbs. torque with a torque wrench.

Honestly, it's the transmission...bring it a shop and have an exchange done. Because you won't get all of the old fluid out, and you might as well do the whole service. Hope this is helpful.

oil catch pan hydraulic cat and ratchet with metric sockets adjustable filter rachet lift car front get on under with oil pan rachets and on the motors side of the car you'll find a bolt on the crank pan just a lonley screw on the bottom of a pan close to where your under loosen screw first then put oil pan under try and loosen screw slowly so when it lets go you can cntrol the flow a little so the oil pan can be put in the proper place to catch the oil let it empty till there is nothing but droplets return screw and tighten back on do not over do it the treads on the pan can be harmed if you over tighten then locate filter put oild pan under filter loosen and the same way as the screw do with the fiter . Before putting in new filter on put some fresh oil on the rubber ring and inside just a little so it goes on smooth your finished under the car now go up top hood open you can put car down by now find oil cap and fill in oil

1 Raise and support
2 Remove front diff assembly from chassis
3 Drain oil
4 Remove clutch or torque converter housing lower plate
5 Remove oil pan

OIL PAN BOLTS 6.7 - 8.9 ft.lb
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH 10 ft.lb

On RL4FO3 automatic transmissions there is a nut and washer on the top of the valve body, that holds that long screw, there are no threads in the valve body so it will never get tight , to replace you need to remove the valve body or get mighty lucky using a thin long tool with a 90 degree bend in it to hold down the nut and washer until you can grab a thread, the good news is you know where the general location of the nut and washer are. If you can't get it to start, and decide to remove the valve body, be really careful those gaskets are brittle. Go to a break down on that transmission and you can see the bolts that actually hold the valve body on the transmission body. The parts house should have told you this.
I never change filters on these transmissions unless I am rebuilding them. Just drop the pan squirt some brake cleaner on the filter until all of the grime comes off of it and then let it dry completely. Clean you pan, put it back together, add new fluid.
I have seen those transmissions run years without that long bolt in them. most of the time they hit a bump and the nut and washer fall to the bottom of the pan. The nut and washer are stainless steel so they might not be attracted to the magnets in the pan depending on the grade of stainless they happened to be using that day. I would try to use a long skinny 90 degree tool to get the nut and washer started back on the screw and then you will have more peace of mind.