Hi, I am looking for a stator charge coil and flywheel for a Kubota GH 250 engine, cheers Luke

kubota didn't make a 2 cylinder that I am aware of... Usually they used Kawasaki engines... But if you have two wires coming fron underneath the flywheel (both white) those are A.C. current... Should be from 5volts to 30ish volts depending on engine speed. these go to a voltage regulator mounted to the side of the engine. additionally there will be a red wire... it is 12 volts D.C.... it needs to be battery voltage. if no voltage here, suspect a blown fuse, loss of voltage somewhere. if no A.C. current on the other two wires suspect a bad stator and/or flywheel. If none of this applies just respond here and I'll get back with you but make sure you find and include engine numbers

OK now I know the mower you have. Some of these mowers were equipped with a 13hp Briggs engine and they do not have a modular type voltage regulator. Your battery is charged from a stator coil under the flywheel thru a diode to the battery. Your problem can be the stator, diode or magnets under the flywheel. Hope this will help.

It is under the flywheel.

Hi what size bolt do you use to pull the fly wheel of for the vtz 250 pls help

Initially yes, but as water is spun off the rotor and air movement dries the single contact area where currents are picked up, the spark will return. Check the cleanliness of the pick-up coil and spray some pentrating water reppellant in the rotor and stator coils. Turning the engine over a lot without spark may also pick up some excess fuel/oil or carbon deposits and foul the sparkplug.
Cheers!

Can't go off your existing setup. But you can get a wr stator and swap it, the regulator, and the heavier flywheel onto your bike. You can find what you need on ebay. Next would be an aftermarket system.


*Help me out. Rate me!

I have a 83 DR 250 and i'm not getting enough voltage to create a spark, all I can suggest is that you check your battery and make sure its at full flavour. Check and see if you are getting any voltage prior to the ignition coil (should be 18-35v). If you suspect battery then try clutching it as the alternator moving faster might give you enough to get her going. Also check all your connections and earths. Earth wires are often overlooked and can cause you just as many problems as the actives. So give that a go and get back to me mate. Cheers

Hello
I Sent an Answer but am Unsure if it was Posted or Not. Here is a Possible Repeat Answer.
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in..***
The Stator/Charging Coils are then Unbolted and Removed and the New Stator/Charging Coil is Attached.
Assemble the Engine in Reverse Order.
The Flywheel Nut Torque for you Engine can be Located at this Site Addy; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/ .
The Clearance for the Coil and Flywheel was Included Earlier in this E-Mail.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Hello:

The Ign Module is Usully the Coil and the Stator/Charging Coils are Located Under the Flywheel.
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in..***
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

Hello itsmcfly32:

From your Description it Sounds like a Stator/Charging Coil Problem.
If there is Not Enough Voltage to Keep the Carburetor Solenoid Open with the PTO Engaged, then the Stator/Charging Coils or the Voltage Regulator (if Applicable) is is Bad and this is causing Low Voltage that is Causing the Carburetor Solenoid to Shut Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor Jet when you Engage the Blades; or the Seat Safety Switch is Bad and Requires Replacing or the Conection Points Require Cleaning.
Check the Seat Safety Switch First.
>>The Following is the Instruction File for Checking the Seat Safety Switch.
>>***PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.***
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. **Make Sure the Switch has a Good Connection. Now; On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). The Seat Safety is Showing No One is Seated in the Seat when the Clutch or Blades are Engaged.**
If the Seat Safety is Good, then
Check the Voltage.
>>Go to this Site Addy; http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3438&p_created=1101706364&p_sid=bkP1h4rj&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MjksMjkmcF9wcm9kcz0mcF9jYXRzPTAmcF9wdj0mcF9jdj0mcF9wYWdlPTEmcF9zZWFyY2hfdGV4dD1DaGVja2luZyB0aGUgQ2hhcmdpbmcgU3lzdGVt&p_li=&p_topview=1 and Use the Information and the Test Chart Links to Properly Determine the Charging System on your Engine and Correctly Test the Charging Sytem to Determine if it is Charging Correctly. These Charts and the Testing can be Used for Almost All Small Engine Charging Systems (Kohler, Tecumseh, Honda, ect). This Site Addy; http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_id.pdf will Assist you in Determining you Charging System on this Engine.
The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated. ***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Coil. Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. *** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. The Stator (Charging Coil) is the Flywheel. Simply Disconnect the Wires, Unbolt the Stator and Replace with a New Stator. Assemble the Engine and you are Good to go.
Replace the Voltage Regulator if you Determine it is Bad.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)