SYMPTOM 1: ROUGH IDLE IN THE COLD
The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine, or at least it runs more smoothly.
Possible causes:
The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs.
The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace components as required.
The Fix: Replace the EGR valve.
The Fix: Check the compression to determine the engine's condition.
The Fix: Set idle speed to the car's original settings.
The Fix: Clean or replace the fuel injectors.SYMPTOM 2: ROUGH IDLE WITH WARM ENGINE
The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is warm. When the engine is warm or hot and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine.
Possible causes:
The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
The Fix: Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
The Fix: Set idle speed to specs.
The Fix: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
The Fix: Replace EGR valve.
The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
The Fix: Clean or replace fuel injectors.SYMPTOM 3: FAST IDLING
The engine idles too fast. After the engine has run long enough to become warm, the idle speed does not come down to normal. You really notice it when you come to a stop and must have to push ******* the brake pedal to keep the car from moving.
Possible causes:
The Fix: Replace the accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
The Fix: Check and repair the cooling system.
The Fix: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required.
The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
The Fix: Replace the idle speed control unit.
The Fix: Replace the alternator.SYMPTOM 4: STALLING UPON STOPPING
Car stalls when stopped quickly. You are driving along and everything is just fine ... until you let off the gas pedal and apply the brakes. The engine starts shaking and may even stall. Not a good thing to happen because you lose power steering when the engine dies and could risk an accident.
Possible causes:
Idling issues can be very frustrating, but with some patient troubleshooting, you'll have a real chance at figuring it out. Remember to always check your engine idle with the air conditioning and defroster turned off, as both of these systems are designed to change the idle when they are on due to the air conditioning system's demands on the engine.
The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
The Fix: Repair or replace the linkage as required.
SOURCE: jeep wrangler stalls out
check idle air control, tps & map sensor. As usual with electronics, test test test before buying anything/
SOURCE: Vibration when in gear, and stalling.
The problem is the torque converter solenoid. I had it happen on my 94 Cavalier a few years back and was a cheap fix at the local car mechanic. What happens is the transmission warms up and hits a certain speed where the solenoid engages, but then it sticks and won't disengage until it cools down sufficiently. When it sticks, it causes the car to shake when slowing down and will snub out the engine if you come to a stop.
SOURCE: throttle/Idle/running problem - wants to run too fast, or stall out
RPM's up and down check EGR valve and sensor. EGR valve and sensor control idle. That's why your getting the surging on rpm's and this could be giving out the other codes. If mass flow was bad car will not start and the same for the map sensor. O2 sensor measures gas and air for right mixer. TPS controls 0-60 speed as in throttle respons.
SOURCE: Runs lumpy when idling
just brought a megane 165 2.0 turbo,nice car,just been serviced from a renault dealer 29000 on the clock,HOWEVER,the toxic fume light flickas on and off at slow speed,it goes off at normal travelling speed,the car is not misfiring,it all seems ok,ive rang the dealer i bought it from and hes saying because the car stands often a week between being used its getting some condenstation in or around the cataltic converter,like i said the car is running fine,DO YOU THINK THE GUY IS FOBBING ME OFF,in the manual it says it should be checked over,any thoughts?
SOURCE: 2001 LINCOLN LS V6 - ROUGH IDLE / SOMETIMES STALLING.
Very common problem is about a dime size hole wearing in the rubber elbow on the PCV valve located on the driver side rear of the intake manifold.
338 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×