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John ODonnell Posted on Aug 22, 2017
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Tension on 1600p

I don't know which way is the increase or decease side of the tension guide

1 Answer

Douglas Plant

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  • Expert 222 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 28, 2017
Douglas Plant
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To increase the tension, turn it clockwise.

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5 Related Answers

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 26, 2008

SOURCE: thread breaking and terrible looping on backside of quilt.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

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Anonymous

  • 323 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2009

SOURCE: Janome 1600P-DB Tension Works For So Long...

It sounds as though the thread is jumping out of the tension assembly. The next time this happens, do not raise the presser foot before you do the following.Cut the thread above the needle and pull on it.If it is working properly there will be tension on it.If it is not working properly, the thread will pull through very easily.If the thread is coming out of the tension , either it isn't threaded correctly or you may need to wrap the thread around the bobbin winder guide to keep it from coming out.If you wrap it around the bobbin winder guide reduce the tension to around 2 , 3 or even less.
Hope this helps.
sewman7

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2009

SOURCE: skipping stitches

Rule of thumb: Fast needle, slow hands. This should help. GiGi

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 24, 2009

SOURCE: Top thread keeps breaking on my Janome 1600P.

I had a similar problem and then realized that the thread on the top had a **** on the spool it was catching on.

Anonymous

  • 1238 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 17, 2011

SOURCE: Stitch tension problem - bobbin

Good day!

please try this simple tips:

Good day!

A sewing machine operator can often help themselves when their machine does not operate properly.
Here are some simple instructions, which if properly used can save time and mechanics service calls.
TROUBLE;UPPER THREAD KEEPS BREAKING;
This could be trouble;================Do this;
1.Top tension to tight================loosen tension 1 turn
2.Machine improperly threaded=========check threading
3.Thread twisted on guide post========"
4.Thread twisted out of tension======="
5.Take up spring bent or broken=======Check action of spring
6.Thread jumped off pull off finger===Check threading
7.Needle bent or burred===============new needle
8.Bad cone of thread==================try another cone
TROUBLE;LOWER THREAD KEEPS BREAKING;
1.Bobbin tensionspring to tight=======Loosen tension slightly
2.Bobbin threaded wrong===============check threading
3.Bobbin wound to tight or uneven=====try new bobbin
4.lint or thread on bobbin case=======clean inside case
5.Lint or thread inside hook==========clean inside hook
6.Bobbin case nicked bent or burred===check/change case
TROUBLE;MACHINE STARTED SKIPPING STITCHES;
1.Needle bent or burred===============change
2.Needle set in crooked===============Check
3.Thread jumped off take up spring====check threading
4.Thread jumped off pull off finger===check threading
TROUBLE STITCHES SHOWING LOOPS;
1.Forming loops on top of cloth=======Tighten bobbin tension
======================================or loosen top tension.
2.forming loops on bottom of cloth====Tighten top tension
3.Bobbin placed in case incorrectly===remove and replace
4.Bobbin thread slipped from under====check threading of
tension===============================bobbin case
5.Lint or thread in top tension=======clean between tension discs


Thank you and good luck.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Top thread keeps breaking

These are some causes. The thread guide has been missed so re-thread the machine. Tension is too tight. Needle is blunt or bent. Thread is getting caught on the rough edge of the spool so turn spool around. Hope this helps
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Janome 1600P skipped stitches

Normal top tension is 3-4; normal bobbin tension (iirc) is 35 grams.
I'm betting, though, that a new needle, right way around and the correct size, would solve your skipping problems.
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What is the normal thread tension setting for the Janome 1600P

Factory standard tension setting is the midway point between high & low number. However, machines vary.
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My top thread frays and then breaks while I am quilting with my 1600p dbx.

change to a new needle
check to make sure thread has no knots or even change the thread spool
check the top thread tension it sound like it's to tight
check the needle plate for burrs
check around the tension knob for loose pieces of thread or lint
use a can of air that you'd use on a computer keyboard on the tension knob & if you don't have the can of air use unwaxed dental floss but make sure to write down the setting it was on before cleaning.
& also under the needle plate area in case there is loose threads or lint & also the bobbin area
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Consew 220. I just bought it. No paperwork came with it. What is the proper way to thread it? Other adjustments necessary? Suggestions? Thanks for your help!

You can find a visual guide on the proper threading of your machine at http://www.sewusa.com/Threading_Diagrams/Threading_Pages/Consew_Sewing_Machine_Threading/consew_210_220_threading_diagram.htm. What other adjustments are you thinking of? If you have loose thread on the top or bottom, you would need to adjust the tension. The best way to do that is to start by having a different color thread in the top and in the bobbin. Then this little lesson on tension works the same with any machine.
Thread your machine with the presser foot UP. The disks that control the tension (threadgoes through them) are tightened up if the foot is down. Change the machine tension with the presser foot DOWN.Because the disks won't be engaged (see above) if the foot is up, the diskswon't move. Start at the middle setting, 3. Go up to tighten, decrease toloosen. Each machine is different, even 2 different machines of the same model.The best thing to do is start at 3 and use a different color in the top andbobbin thread so you can easily see what changes to the tension do to yourstitches. Now use a straight stitch a sew 3 or so inches. Take a lookat the top and bottom of the fabric. You don't want to see any (or at least notmuch) of the other color showing from the other side. Loops on the bottom of the fabric means you need to tighten(increase) your top tension. If you're stitches on the bottom are causingpuckering, then you need to loosen you're top tension. For the most part, youreally don't want to touch your bobbin tension-leave that to a repairtechnician. The factory setting shouldn't be touched except by someone whoreally knows what they're doing. Keep sewing a few inches at a time until you have the resultsyou want. Now you're tension is where you need it!
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Brother LS-2125 - stitches forming loops on the right side as a sew

acing you has loops on it then it is the bobbin tension which is incorrect or the bobbin has been threaded wrongly. A good way to test tension is using contrasting colours top and bottom. Rethread your machine and tighten up the bobbin tension screw if needed.
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Cannot get a straight stitch

Please check the top tension as well and rethread. I had this problem and after doing the above, everything worked perfectly. Thanks.
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Janome 1600P-DB Tension Works For So Long...

It sounds as though the thread is jumping out of the tension assembly. The next time this happens, do not raise the presser foot before you do the following.Cut the thread above the needle and pull on it.If it is working properly there will be tension on it.If it is not working properly, the thread will pull through very easily.If the thread is coming out of the tension , either it isn't threaded correctly or you may need to wrap the thread around the bobbin winder guide to keep it from coming out.If you wrap it around the bobbin winder guide reduce the tension to around 2 , 3 or even less.
Hope this helps.
sewman7
8helpful
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Janome 1600P

My husband and I worked for months trying to solve this problem and FINALLY we did it. I even had a YLI varigated thread in the top and Coats and Clark varigated in the bobbin. The machine Janome 1600P DB makes a beautiful stitch. This is a long posting and if you have questions I'll be happy to help if I can. [email protected]
1) I give credit to piecemealquilts.wordpress.com for their recommendations.
Most of which I list below.
2) First of all make sure that the frame is level in all directions, side-to-side, top to bottom. That includes the table that it is setting on.
3) Bobbin tension: This is much looser than you normally have it set on. The bobbin should fall steadily to the floor. Read your machine manual to learn how to loosen the tension. Be sure to go in small increments. Don't be afraid. It also helps to use a different color thread in the bobbin than the top to see the problem. Is the bobbin properly inserted into the bobbin case. Is the bobbin case properly inserted into the machine?
4)Use the correct needle for your machine.
5) Use at least a 14 and a 16 or 18 is even better. Size 20 for specialty threads if you can get a size that large.
6) Make sure that the needle is inserted properly. My machine doesn't have a flat side so proper insertion is challenging. If you can find a straight pin small enough to fit in the eye do so as this helps to determine if the needle is in at the correct angle. The eye of my needle is left to right so I use a sturdy piece of thread, some spray starch on the thread helps it to stay straight. This makes it much easier to determine if the needle is in properly.
7) The pressure foot dial is set on 0
8) The stitch length is set on the longest stitch length. I know that you actually determine the stitch length and some people tell you to have it set on 0, but I found this to work.
9)Threading: Make sure you have the machine threaded correctly. Inoticed that when my thread was breaking that the thread in the take uplever was either out of the thread guides or had crossed each other. Also, sometimes the thread had wrapped itself around the first smallthread guide and/or the outside hole on the pretension thread guide hadwrapped around the bottom of the thread guide. When your thread breaks pull a good 12" out and then cut it off assometimes it has frayed higher up. This will help to reduce continuedbreakage and your frustration. This sounds dumb but still make sure the thread is sitting on the spool properly, that the thread spills off the spool as shown in your machine manual. I found it helpful to place a felt pad underneath the spool of thread. This was just a scrap of felt with a hole cut into it. Check the retractable thread guide which is right over your spool that it is correctly positioned and not twisted around. The thread should easily pull off the spool. I found that my machine worked better if I onlythreaded the two guide holes closest to the machine on the pretension guide.
10)Thread tension: I found that my needle tension had to be much looser than what I was used to anywhere from 1 -3.
11)The quilt: Not too tight and not too loose,too tight and needles and thread break, too loose and it's difficult to move the carriage. Can you poke a finger from the bottom and grip it from the top? I found this a little too loose, but used it as a guide. The side clamps are to keep it straight and not tight.
12)The take up rail should just barely clear the bed of the machine. I found it more accurate to check this with the machine in the middle of the quilt as opposed to one of the ends. Can you fit your fingers between the quilt and the machine bed? Yes, but barely is the answer.
13) I was able to quilt in both directions, but make sure your carriage moves freely in all directions.
14) Make sure the feed dogs are down and ready for free motion.
15) Make sure the presser foot is down and ready for sewing.
16) Check both the bobbin area and the top thread tension area for stray threads. It happens.
17) My last help was to add thread lubricant, but make sure your machine allows it. I just found out that you shouldn't use this on the spool if you have plastic tension discs. Mine are metal, but still I use this sparingly. I run a couple of lines on the spool, let it sit for a few minutes then sew. I don't repeat this for at least an hour of constant sewing.
18) Strangely this also helped, every so often I pulled straight out on both the knobs of the pretension disc and the tension disc. Don't pull the knobs off. This just released the tension of the thread. I didn't adjust it, I just pulled straight out. I didn't rethread it, just released it.

19) Finally, I did discover that I had a burr on my tension disc.How to figure this out, well it works better with two people, but one can do it. Lift up the presser foot, needle is in the highest position, then manually , slowly pull the thread through the needle, listen to the tension disc. You shouldn't hear anything. Watch the tension disc, does the check spring move down? Does it stay down then bounce back up? It shouldn't. Feel the thread as it is being pulled does it have tension on it? If the answer to these questions is yes, take it to the shop and let them fix it. It literally takes 5 mins.

I hope this helps
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